# A week in Istria (Croatia)

> For this summer of 2021, we had planned a road trip in Slovenia and Croatia, more precisely in Istria, that triangle-shaped region at the far west of the country.

Source: https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/en/blog/week-in-istria-croatia/
Published on 3 August 2021

For this summer of 2021, we had planned a road trip in Slovenia and Croatia, more precisely in **Istria**, that triangle-shaped region at the far west of the country. It was the first time we had come to Croatia and we couldn’t wait to discover this more authentic region, a little less known to the French than Dalmatia or the southern islands.

After picking up our rental car in Koper on the Slovenian coast, we took the road south towards Croatia. For the border crossing, we didn’t wait very long because we simply had to show our passports from the car.

**On the itinerary side**, it all depends on where you arrive in Istria. If like us you come by car from Slovenia, the wisest thing is to start by visiting the whole north of Istria and to work your way down gradually towards the west and east coasts. If you arrive by plane, the airport that serves the region is in Pula, the main town at the far south of Istria: you will therefore have to start with the southern tip and head back up towards the western coast and inland Istria. Follow the guide!

## What to see in Istria

### Inland Istria: the land

#### Buje

First stop on our arrival in Croatia, the little village of **Buje** sits right at the north of the Istria region. There was not a single tourist, so we were literally alone walking its cobbled lanes! Buje is tiny and all the points of interest are concentrated in the upper town: the church (nicely decorated inside), the bell tower (which we climbed to the top of), the viewpoint and the military cemetery.

![Yellow Mater Misericordiae church and its stone bell tower in Buje](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-02-2d58826c.webp)

![Baroque nave with red carpet and wooden pews in a church in Buje](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-03-b0b9772a.webp)

![Stone house with brown shutters and flower pots, lane in Buje](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-04-db35190a.webp)

![View over the cultivated hills from a shaded low wall in Buje](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-05-81127723.webp)

![Tiled roofs and pointed bell tower of Buje amid the hills](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-06-0c0977f8.webp)

#### Grožnjan

**Grožnjan** was one of our favourite villages in inland Istria: it reminded us enormously of a Provençal village in the Luberon because of the stunning view over the green hills, the narrow cobbled lanes and the stone houses.

> **Where to park for free in Grožnjan?**
>
> All along the road before the village entrance, the spaces have to be paid for; so we carried on [to the little unsurfaced road](https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3798516,13.7239313,3a,75y,58.95h,90t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sP9tiCBnvaym-6rA_GP0fFw!2e0!6shttps:%2F%2Fstreetviewpixels-pa.googleapis.com%2Fv1%2Fthumbnail%3Fpanoid%3DP9tiCBnvaym-6rA_GP0fFw%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D231.94466%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656), just after the church, where we parked in the shade.

![Arcaded loggia and stone staircase filled with geraniums in Grožnjan](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-07-9cc7cb37.webp)

![Ochre house with outside staircase and flowered arcades in Grožnjan](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-08-47b95320.webp)

![Sloping lane lined with large jars and climbing plants](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-09-9d1262e8.webp)

![Cobbled alley with guest house signs and hydrangeas, Grožnjan](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-10-8c4b5809.webp)

#### Oprtalj

**Oprtalj** is a small hilltop village in the north of Istria, very pretty to admire from a distance on the road when you come from Sterna. This is not where you will run into tourists, we were alone during our visit! The village has kept a few old monuments such as its loggia or its church, but unfortunately more than half of the houses are abandoned once you go deeper into the lanes.

![Red arcaded loggia opening onto the cobbled square of Oprtalj](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-11-4bd7d6d1.webp)

![Hilltop village of Oprtalj and its bell tower above the cypresses](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-12-85180b80.webp)

![Pink arcaded loggia and pots of geraniums on a square in Oprtalj](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-13-dc6f8a8a.webp)

![Stone houses on the edge of Oprtalj facing the wooded hills](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-14-dc6ba642.webp)

#### Motovun

**Motovun** is one of the best known and most touristy villages in Istria. We visited it in very hot, stormy weather and one thing is certain: the climb is very hard in the heat! The slope up to the top of the village is very steep and the cobbles slippery. We got a cool drink from a seller of smoothies and fresh juices (Merlin juices, cash only), opposite the loggia, after doing the **walk around the ramparts** to get a lovely view over the region.

> **Where to park for free in Motovun?**
>
> As in almost every village, the car parks have to be paid for. We found a space [in a little street](https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3324304,13.8252555,3a,75y,111.72h,88.84t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sRDzKyPe9gvWODEmLscSwoA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656) below the village.

![Tiled roofs and wooded valley seen from the ramparts of Motovun](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-15-4d8fc782.webp)

![Large gothic arch of the town gate of Motovun, lined with geraniums](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-16-edacd4d5.webp)

![Stage and rows of white chairs set up at the foot of the Motovun tower](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-17-350a13f8.webp)

But the famous view of Motovun, you will find it [from the road](https://www.google.com/maps/place/View+Motovun/@45.3062141,13.7908076,13z/data=!4m13!1m6!3m5!1s0x47f49639b523f0db:0x9865e13b3088a520!2sViewPoint!8m2!3d45.9033532!4d4.8775139!3m5!1s0x477ca7ad72c1e98f:0xf42ac1541df03fcb!8m2!3d45.3237183!4d13.8271056!15sCgp2aWV3IHBvaW50WgwiCnZpZXcgcG9pbnSSARBvYnNlcnZhdGlvbl9kZWNrmgEjQ2haRFNVaE5NRzluUzBWSlEwRm5TVVJ2YW5WSFRXWm5FQUU) as you arrive from the south. A magnificent spot between the vines, the hills and the lavender.

![Woman in a white dress in the lavender facing the hilltop village of Motovun](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-18-7357f253.webp)

![The hill of Motovun rising from the vineyards behind lavender stems](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-19-3e17012d.webp)

![Woman in a white dress walking through the vines below the hill of Motovun](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-20-da88ef3b.webp)

#### Hum

**Hum** has been named the smallest town in the world because it has only two streets! So we wanted to see this curiosity, which still has ramparts, a loggia and a belfry.

🅿️ Careful, the car park has to be paid for and is quite expensive… which is excessive, especially to spend only about ten minutes there. So we parked in front of the entrance to the ramparts.

![Stone houses packed along a sloping lane in Hum](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-21-59bc34a8.webp)

![Stone church and clock tower of Hum on close-cropped grass](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-22-2ba043b5.webp)

![Stepped lane lined with dry stone walls in Hum](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-23-5eab6d43.webp)

#### Lake Butoniga

On the road between the villages of northern Istria and Pazin there is a curiosity: the artificial lake of Butoniga, over which the [Viewpoint Ukotići](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Viewpoint+Ukoti%C4%87i/@45.3220205,13.9200664,13.47z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x477ca959d4607a7b:0x6cca0f7efc43ca23!8m2!3d45.3237902!4d13.9142427) offers a splendid panorama of the surroundings. This lake is not in the travel guides, we found it in a local brochure, so you will not meet anyone there.

![Lake Butoniga hemmed in between entirely wooded hills](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-24-e9205fe8.webp)

![Turquoise arm of Lake Butoniga seen from the heights](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-25-b0530ecf.webp)

#### Pazin

**Pazin** is the main town in the heart of Istria: it is from here that the roads set off in every direction to explore the region. Built on the edge of a ravine with a river flowing at the bottom, this town attracts tourists for two reasons: its medieval **castle** overlooking the chasm and the giant **zip line** that crosses the chasm. To get a viewpoint over the castle, you have to cross the bridge and head towards the start of the zip line. Careful, the path that goes down into the chasm has to be paid for.

> **Where to park for free in Pazin?**
>
> You will surprisingly find spaces at the foot of the castle.

A few minutes from Pazin is the **Zarečki Krov waterfall**, where the locals and a few tourists come to cool off. The place is worth a look and the path to reach it is not very long.

![Man leaning on the walkway of the viewpoint above the Pazin chasm](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-26-48a2639c.webp)

![Pazin castle standing on the edge of the cliff above the chasm](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-27-2a369837.webp)

![Green water and waterfall at the bottom of the cave of the Pazin chasm](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-28-a9aaa154.webp)

#### Gračišće

**Gračišće** is a tiny stone village east of Pazin, on the road that goes down towards Plomin. We were alone there once again! The panorama from the church is truly sublime because the village looks out over the whole valley. A few kilometres from the village is the **Sopot waterfall**, which was unfortunately completely dried up when we visited. Going by the photos found on the internet, it must be magnificent with water!

![Rocky gorge and small green pool of water at the foot of the cliffs](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-29-db792739.webp)

![Village square framed by the timber frame of a loggia in Gračišće](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-30-4f8f9b28.webp)

![Low stone wall and view over the hills from Gračišće](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-31-93eab0be.webp)

![Stone houses and small bell tower along a street in Gračišće](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-32-0cac2734.webp)

#### Sveti Lovreč

Do not miss **Sveti Lovreč** either, one of the best preserved fortified medieval villages in Istria! We discovered it in the early evening, on the day of the local festival celebrating the region’s craftspeople. So there was plenty going on and we got to see all the village’s monuments, open for the occasion, in particular the church bell tower. The village is also known for its lavender: a few fields surround the village, enough for some pretty photos at the start of summer.

> **Little anecdote**
>
> do not do what we did, check the time when you go up the bell tower, or you risk finding yourself at the top just as the bells ring!

![Colonnaded loggia and crenellated tower on the square of Sveti Lovreč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-33-29cb5d38.webp)

![Tower of Sveti Lovreč at sunset behind the lavender fields](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-34-11734acb.webp)

![Well and clock tower on the cobbled square of Sveti Lovreč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-35-0476ece8.webp)

![Lit-up stalls and strollers in a street of Sveti Lovreč in the evening](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-36-c9d23cfb.webp)

#### Dvigrad

One of our favourites in Istria! **Dvigrad** is an abandoned medieval village perched on top of a hill: quite simply impressive. We went at sunset and the light on the ruins was magnificent. We strongly advise you to take a look when you pass by Kanfanar.

![Woman in front of the tall grilled bay of a ruined church in Dvigrad](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-37-c26ffbc3.webp)

![Stone staircase climbing towards the ruined walls of Dvigrad](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-38-d4a3faff.webp)

![Collapsed church walls of Dvigrad at dusk, viaduct in the distance](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-39-13984864.webp)

![Scattered sections of wall in the abandoned town of Dvigrad](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-40-680861a2.webp)

![Gable and arcades of the ruined church at the heart of Dvigrad](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-41-ef7ed8ce.webp)

![High collapsed wall and stone arch in the ruins of Dvigrad](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-42-de505e81.webp)

#### Svetvinčenat

**Svetvinčenat** is a small village we liked a lot: we went there twice, in particular to have dinner at the foot of its castle (details at the end of this article). The main attraction of the village is of course its big, well preserved medieval castle, stronghold of the Grimani family in the Middle Ages.

![Vast lawn in front of the crenellated ramparts of Svetvinčenat castle](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-43-8c458545.webp)

![Church with a pink dome and bell tower on the main square of Svetvinčenat](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-44-eac1cd6b.webp)

![Castle curtain wall and large cedar at dusk, Svetvinčenat](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-45-270e52d0.webp)

#### Bale

We discovered **Bale** at the end of the day and unlike many of the villages we drove through, this one was quite lively in the evening with a few bars and restaurants. A small medieval town, Bale is surrounded by ramparts: one of its major monuments is the fully restored **Bembo palace**. Worth seeing!

![Cobbled lane covered with ivy and flower pots in Bale](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-46-1309e3f8.webp)

![Bell tower and pale façade of the church of Bale behind a tall cypress](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-47-f53d0cfd.webp)

![Gothic palace with mullioned windows on the square of Bale](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-48-a3772ec8.webp)

![Fuchsia oleanders in front of a sloping cobbled lane in Bale](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-49-24ec6618.webp)

#### Vodnjan

Just before reaching Pula, we stopped at **Vodnjan**, an old village that has a pretty main square with a few historic palaces. Visiting this small town is not essential but it makes for a break on the road heading to the south of Istria. The village is best known for its six mummies of saints, which are kept in the S. Blaza church.

![Passer-by in a street of Vodnjan between a pink façade and a stone wall](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-50-3a09ae73.webp)

![Red palace with neo-gothic decoration on the main square of Vodnjan](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-51-8831b6e7.webp)

![Courtyard with ochre and orange façades in old Vodnjan](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-52-42aa6fc1.webp)

![Narrow street between a yellow house and stone façades, Vodnjan](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-53-8189eae2.webp)

![Market stall under an awning in front of the red palace of Vodnjan](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-54-e825d96e.webp)

### The west coast

#### Poreč

If you are only to visit two coastal towns in Istria, we advise you to see Poreč and Rovinj. On our side, we were very taken with the historic centre of **Poreč**, which has kept many remains of its Roman past. The heart of the town is pedestrian, which makes strolling in the cobbled lanes and around the ramparts very pleasant. Several monuments are worth noting: **the Romanesque House, the House of Two Saints, Palais Zuccato**… look up!

![Wrought iron café chairs between ancient column shafts, Poreč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-55-2ee42377.webp)

![Venetian gothic façade with pointed arch windows in Poreč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-56-d5f074c4.webp)

![Shopping street in Poreč and its yellow house with brown shutters](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-57-219e469f.webp)

![Pastel façades and hanging flower baskets in a street in Poreč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-58-5da60dc7.webp)

> **Where to park for free in Poreč?**
>
> As in all the tourist towns of Istria, the car parks around the centre have to be paid for. So we found a [small free car park](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Parkplatz/@45.2265973,13.6014739,15.86z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x8c21a622cc7b8b41!8m2!3d45.2279689!4d13.6029213) ten minutes’ walk from the old town, in a residential area.

In Poreč, whatever you do, do not miss the visit of the **Euphrasian Basilica**, on the Unesco World Heritage list (50kn, 6,70€ for entry). This episcopal complex is very large and magnificently well preserved: the self-guided visit takes about an hour (a little more if you linger in the museum).

![Arcaded atrium of the Euphrasian basilica in Poreč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-59-38e42a5e.webp)

![Golden mosaics of the apse of the Euphrasian basilica](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-60-ea82fad5.webp)

![Potted palm in the middle of the atrium of the Euphrasian basilica](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-61-1b426420.webp)

![Mosaic of a saint around a window on the façade, above the roof tiles](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-62-74e2e77e.webp)

![Rooftops of Poreč and the Adriatic Sea seen from the top of the bell tower](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-63-14d99f53.webp)

![White bell tower and excavated remains of the episcopal complex of Poreč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-64-450f1892.webp)

![View over the peninsula of Poreč and the sea from the heights](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-65-84217ea6.webp)

#### Plava Laguna

With the somewhat stifling heat, we looked for a beach to cool off. We chose to go to [Plava Laguna](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Plava+Laguna+Beach/@45.2090309,13.5884767,17.29z/data=!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x477c97a92382d679:0x8df7c493f9b45645!2sPlava+Laguna,+52440,+Pore%C4%8D,+Croatie!3b1!8m2!3d45.2112467!4d13.5931058!3m4!1s0x477c97919fa4fdf5:0x50478069086a790f!8m2!3d45.2089314!4d13.5903051), south of Poreč in the hotel zone, which has the advantage of being a bit set up: concrete platforms let you lay down your towel and there are even showers available. Try to go at the end of the day to avoid the crowds! Watch out though for the rocks, which hurt your feet terribly: it is better to swim with shoes on.

![Woman standing on a rock facing a wooded islet of the Plava Laguna](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-66-5114d6df.webp)

![Stainless steel bathing ladder set into a rock, turquoise water](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-67-dd0e030c.webp)

![Woman going into the water down the ladder of a rocky cove](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-68-97332295.webp)

![Transparent sea and wooded islet off the Plava Laguna](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-69-b5212c13.webp)

#### The Lim canal

Between Poreč and Rovinj is the Lim river valley, 10 kilometres long down to the sea. It looks like a small fjord which unfortunately is not very visible from the road. So we made a few stops at viewpoints to admire the landscape more closely: [Lim fjord viewpoint](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Lim+fjord+viewpoint/@45.1402375,13.6650083,11.98z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x477cb9ea28979e6f:0xaa07c62f7640eab6!8m2!3d45.1393352!4d13.7062306) and [Vidikovac](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Vidikovac/@45.1411067,13.6102268,12.26z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x477cbf2c98b31037:0x7a1981b45956dc96!8m2!3d45.1372422!4d13.6303103) are the two views worth the detour. If you are short on time, do not take this canal road: the Plomin fjord on the east coast is far more impressive!

![The Lim channel winding between entirely wooded slopes](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-70-fef2561b.webp)

![Boats gliding over the blue waters of the Lim channel](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-71-dcd853c6.webp)

![Wooden platform of a viewpoint overlooking the Lim channel](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-72-1c9dfdd5.webp)

#### Rovinj

We then went to **Rovinj**, one of the best known and most touristy towns in Istria: this is where we met the most people. It has to be said that the town is very colourful and has a lot of charm, even bringing an Italian town to mind. To get a lovely viewpoint over Rovinj, you have to go over to the harbour side and the marina facing it. Get your calves ready, it climbs a lot!

> **Where to park for free in Rovinj?**
>
> Rovinj is not made for cars: the town is cut into zones that correspond to higher or lower rates (up to 20kn) for paid car parks. We found a space on a small dirt track towards [Stanka Pauletika](https://www.google.com/maps/@45.0778887,13.6444912,246m/data=!3m1!1e3).

![Lane with yellow, pink and ochre façades in old Rovinj](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-73-65e57994.webp)

![Blue bicycle leaning under a flowered window on a salmon wall, Rovinj](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-74-5243e0d1.webp)

![Stepped lane in Rovinj climbing towards the bell tower of the old town](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-75-23595ec3.webp)

![Washing hung across a lane with red façades in Rovinj](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-76-285b0889.webp)

![Woman on the quay in Rovinj in front of the boats and the old town](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-77-6a17f1aa.webp)

![Old town of Rovinj seen from the white rocks of the shore](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-78-e7b6c36a.webp)

![Colourful seafront and marina of Rovinj](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-79-8453c4de.webp)

![Façade and tall bell tower of the church of Saint Euphemia in Rovinj](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-80-ca904be0.webp)

![Boats moored in front of the silhouette of Rovinj on the sea](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-81-db3e1076.webp)

### The east coast towards the Gulf of Kvarner

#### Trget

We began our way back up the east coast of Istria at the small harbour of **Trget**, on road 421. The landscapes change a lot compared with what we had been able to see on the west coast: here, the fjord is wide and surrounded by high wooded cliffs. Going back up the road towards Labin, you will enjoy a magnificent view over the village and the fjord with its blue and green colours.

![Bay of Trget and its marina at the foot of entirely wooded hills](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-82-bdc4756c.webp)

![Bow of a burgundy sailing boat moored in the port of Trget](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-83-24d6a671.webp)

![Masts of sailing boats and turquoise water in front of the hills of Trget](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-84-f903aab6.webp)

![Houses with tiled roofs and pontoons at the edge of the bay of Trget](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-85-1bef2a7c.webp)

#### Labin

Next stop on our route, **Labin**, a colourful medieval town hoisted up on top of a hill that looks out over the region as far as the sea and the town of Rabac. The village is fairly small, we went round it quickly, but it is worth a look! Do not miss the panoramic view over the mountains and the sea from [Vidikovac Fortica](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Vidikovac+Fortica/@45.086244,14.1229477,18.39z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x47634982e37b5315:0xbaf64debcc0b7c85!8m2!3d45.0866217!4d14.1253236).

> **Where to park for free in Labin?**
>
> We parked below the village, [at the roundabout](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Parking+Groblje+Labin/@45.0789002,14.1253665,17.94z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x47634918ec60ba91:0xc37c10bae148e50e!8m2!3d45.077954!4d14.1244635). The car parks on the edge of the village have to be paid for and fill up fast; also avoid driving into Labin because the traffic there is heavy.

![Red palace and wide stone staircase in the old town of Labin](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-86-57e2bc74.webp)

![Cannon lying in front of an orange façade in the old town of Labin](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-87-22c04519.webp)

![Yellow house with green shutters and its stone staircase, Labin](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-88-c3e6ed48.webp)

![Labin perched on its hill above a sea of greenery](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-89-316b3092.webp)

![Slender cypress and view over the coast from the heights of Labin](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-90-f94241e8.webp)

![Inhabited ridge of Labin overlooking the bay and the sea in the distance](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-91-8a544073.webp)

#### Plomin

From Labin, we took the famous **route 66** (_another one!_) to follow the coast down to the Gulf of Kvarner, a Croatian region neighbouring Istria. We stopped twice around **Plomin**: a first time in the village of the same name and a second time at the [Flanona hotel](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Hotel+Flanona/@45.1292521,14.1977334,14.11z/data=!4m8!3m7!1s0x4763458773d548a7:0xceaca46b8c75aff4!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d45.1219455!4d14.2044256), whose car park offers a breathtaking view over the fjord and the Adriatic Sea. While the stone village is typical and charming, it is not an essential stop if you do not have much time. The photos unfortunately do not do justice to the incredible landscape we had in front of our eyes.

![Rounded bay and headland seen through the trees from Plomin](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-92-e6c6bb11.webp)

![Stone remains of Plomin overlooking the sea and the wooded cape](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-93-0d2e3ee0.webp)

![Pines above the blue sea and the distant coast, Plomin](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-94-456da3df.webp)

#### Brseč

**Brseč** is a charming village hanging on the cliff above the sea: we were alone there, so this is not where you will meet the most tourists! And yet the village deserves a stop. Reckon on half an hour to wander the flowery lanes and take in the view over the sea from the fortifications.

![Gap in a stone wall opening onto the sea in Brseč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-95-ac186710.webp)

![Zinc watering can filled with flowers on a low wall in the village of Brseč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-96-a7947d52.webp)

![Wooded slope dropping down to the sea under a cloudy sky, Brseč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-97-1ee808a9.webp)

![Woman climbing a staircase under a purple bougainvillea, Brseč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-98-b378d79e.webp)

![Vaulted passage and steps lined with colourful flower pots, Brseč](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-99-48abb1a5.webp)

#### Mošćenice

The next stop on route 66 was the hilltop village of **Mošćenice**, where the short walk along the ledge overlooking the sea was a real favourite! You should come here just for the view, which is well worth the winding road to reach the village. Once at the small car park, you take the stairs that go down towards the sea. The view over the lush green mountains plunging towards the sea is beyond sublime!

![Oleander overhanging a walking path facing the sea](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-100-335a015a.webp)

![Green slope running down to the sea under heavy clouds, Mošćenice](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-101-c9d27117.webp)

![Woman leaning on a railing facing the sea and the distant hills](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-102-59809398.webp)

![Table with a checked cloth under a vine trellis with a sea view](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-103-7e0a5e55.webp)

#### Lovran

Our last stop on the east coast was **Lovran**, where we had a late lunch at the restaurant Food & Wine Bar Ganeum (listed in our favourite spots at the end of this article). We did not linger there but the small historic centre is worth a look. We turned around here to go back to Istria because the coastal towns in the distance looked more and more built up and we did not want to visit an over-urbanised coastline.

> **Where to park for free in Lovran?**
>
> We found a space [in the jetty car park](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Parkplatz+am+Hafen/@45.2904941,14.277687,19.14z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x47635772dd7d6305:0xe2e0f7393be2dec!8m2!3d45.2903573!4d14.2780282), in front of the harbour.

### The southern tip

#### Pula

From our accommodation in Kanfanar, we decided to go and explore the south of the region, starting with **Pula, the biggest town in Istria**. We thought we would find a historic town full of charm, but it was a huge disappointment… The surroundings of Pula are very built up and industrial and the seafront is completely disfigured by cranes and cargo ships. And it has to be admitted that the crushing heat did not help either in making the town pleasant to stroll around.

> **Where to park for free in Pula?**
>
> We found a space [in the street that runs along Montezaro park](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Free+Parking/@44.8651616,13.8466482,15.16z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x5874467bc88b1031!8m2!3d44.8663147!4d13.8444525), a few minutes from the town centre. The rest of the parking in town has to be paid for and is very expensive (up to 20kn an hour).

The old town centre is concentrated around the **Kaštel**, the so-called “Venetian” fortress that dominates the town and houses the Historical and Maritime Museum of Istria. We walked the **rampart walk**, following the bastions, but the view from the hill is not sensational. We then went down towards the centre, passing two old gates: the **Twin Gate** and the **Gate of Hercules**, of which remains are left. It is in this neighbourhood that you find the symbol of the town, **the amphitheatre**, said to be one of the six biggest amphitheatres of the ancient world still standing today. You can go all the way around the outside to admire the very well preserved high walls: we did not think it necessary to visit the inside because the tiers and the levels no longer exist. And finally, before getting back in the car, we passed by the main square of the centre, **the** **Forum**, where you find the town hall, **the temple of Augustus** and a few beautiful houses with Italian architecture.

![Ashlar bastion of the fortifications of Pula](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-104-5cfb654d.webp)

![Cannons lined up in front of the rampart and the white tower of the fortress of Pula](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-105-5567c2c7.webp)

![Roman arena of Pula and its arcades on three levels](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-106-203b89fa.webp)

![Inside the arena of Pula and its stone tiers](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-107-e58e4fc2.webp)

![Temple of Augustus and communal palace on the forum of Pula](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-108-00e6f808.webp)

![Excavated Roman foundations in the middle of the buildings of Pula](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-109-3f864cb8.webp)

![Arcades of the amphitheatre of Pula seen from below above the lavender](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-110-2581004c.webp)

![Two levels of arcades of the Roman amphitheatre of Pula](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-111-ad92c7b4.webp)

![Outer façade of the arena of Pula lined with beds of lavender](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-112-10138f42.webp)

#### Kamenjak

If the day had started with a disappointment at Pula, discovering the **Kamenjak nature reserve** was a real favourite in Istria! At the far south of the peninsula, this protected park is a little gem: you get in just after the village of Premantura, [here](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Zna%C4%8Dajni+krajobraz+Kamenjak+i+medulinski+arhipelag,+ulaz.Significant+landscape/@44.7960601,13.9063917,16.14z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x47632bfca7043a01:0x3ea03efeb55d88cf!8m2!3d44.7958806!4d13.9080369) on Google Maps. Entry to the park has to be paid for (**80kn, 10,60€**, payable by card) if you come by car (essential for getting around, in our opinion). The roads are not surfaced and look more like stony tracks: watch out for stones and dust!

We headed straight for the south of the reserve, to **Debeljak Cove**, a magnificent creek with turquoise waters, perfect for cooling off, from which paths set out to reach **Cape Kamenjak**. At the end of the point there is a superb high viewpoint ([Jistra South View Point](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Jistra+South+View+Point/@44.7704046,13.9170329,17.11z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x47632b4fab5d6aa7:0x94afa46de217882e!8m2!3d44.7679757!4d13.9186408)) which lets you see the whole peninsula. After a few hours spent in the south, we slowly came back up towards the park entrance, stopping at the famous **[Safari Bar](https://www.google.fr/maps/place/Safari+Bar/@44.7705997,13.9168497,16.08z/data=!4m12!1m6!3m5!1s0x47632b4fab5d6aa7:0x94afa46de217882e!2sJistra+South+View+Point!8m2!3d44.7679757!4d13.9186408!3m4!1s0x47632a3ce26a5867:0xa1f0b1be600a9682!8m2!3d44.7692171!4d13.9103335)**: a completely offbeat bar with unusual decor right by the sea (**18kn, 2,40€** for the homemade iced tea, cash only). We then made two stops in different magnificent creeks to watch the sunset: Beach Plovanije and Beach Pinižule.

We spent more than five hours in the reserve enjoying the warm sea water and the landscapes: we strongly advise you to spend at least half a day there!

![Rocky cove and deep water of the Kamenjak nature park](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-113-4c17ac18.webp)

![Clear turquoise water over the rocky slabs of Kamenjak](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-114-4776e857.webp)

![Woman in sunglasses bathing in the clear water of Kamenjak](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-115-0c9cfc52.webp)

![Boats at anchor in a bay lined with scrubland, Kamenjak](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-116-5d3193c8.webp)

![Flat rocky shore of Kamenjak, sailing boat out to sea](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-117-be53a0c8.webp)

![Beach bar under the trees with stools cut from logs](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-118-4eadf56f.webp)

![Cup of red drink held out at arm's length facing the sea](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-119-4587497d.webp)

![Woman in a flowered dress on a pebble beach in Kamenjak](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-120-c519dbac.webp)

![Red inflatable ring in a turquoise cove shaded by pines](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-121-a2efbbd5.webp)

![Sun setting over the sea from the tip of Kamenjak](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-122-33586362.webp)

## Our places to stay in Istria

We rented **two places** for this week in Istria so as to be as close as possible to the sights to visit, both in the north and in the south of the region. We strongly advise you to do the same, to avoid driving too much during the day.

- Our stay began in the north of Istria (in Makovci) with a lovely gem unearthed on [Airbnb](https://www.airbnb.fr/rooms/5533542?source_impression_id=p3_1628021349_xru1cIbLXI%2F3R9Nk&guests=1&adults=1): a small house with a terrace and a jacuzzi, quiet, with a view over the surrounding mountains. We stayed there **3 nights for 238€**.
- We then spent **four nights** in Kanfanar, further south, in a one-bedroom flat rented on [Airbnb](https://www.airbnb.fr/rooms/43857784?source_impression_id=p3_1628021976_Xl%2BCq5905czFp9kG) with a garden and a pool shared (with a second flat), for **257€**. We were at peace there and alone to enjoy the pool, whether during the day or in the evening!

![Hot tub set up under a pergola facing the vineyards](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-123-26ca7bad.webp)

![Woman seen from behind in the hot tub looking at the hills](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-124-dd39fff6.webp)

![Garden and stone path of the accommodation opening onto the vineyards](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-125-0b2a491c.webp)

![Table and chairs under the pergola of the terrace, hot tub at the back](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-126-7179b69d.webp)

![Bather leaning on the edge of the pool at dusk, among the olive trees](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-127-5d07a978.webp)

![Pool lined with sun loungers and parasols in front of the holiday house](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-128-9ae57747.webp)

![Pool lit up after nightfall under a large tree](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-129-bd7532c1.webp)

![Olive tree and oleander in front of the pool at dusk](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-130-c8d0ba51.webp)

## Our favourite spots in Istria

- **[La Parenzana](http://www.laparenzana.com/restaurant-menu/) in Buje**: good restaurant a few kilometres from the Slovenian border, in the north of Istria, with a superb terrace under the olive trees (60€ for two for a mixed board and two mains).
- **[Casa Manzolin Wine & Food by Poletti](http://casamanzolin.com/en/home/) in Poreč**: very good Gault&Millau restaurant just behind the Euphrasian Basilica (43€ for two for two starters, two mains and a dessert).
- **[Food & Wine Bar Ganeum](https://www.instagram.com/food_wine_bar_ganeum/) in Lovran**: good Gault&Millau restaurant with a shaded terrace in the old town of Lovran (52€ for a starter, two mains and a dessert).
- **[Pizzeria Grimani](https://www.eistra.info/grimani/) in Svetvinčenat**: good pizzeria with a very beautiful terrace at the foot of the castle, at unbeatable prices (between 40 and 50kn, that is around 6€ for the pizza).
- **[Konoba-pizzeria 2.Peron](https://konoba-pizzeria2peron.com/) in Cerovlje**: Gault&Millau restaurant that serves generous pizzas at low prices (total bill: 17€ for two pizzas and 4 chocolate crêpes).
- **Tre Porte Artisan Pâtisserie in Rovinj**: a sweet break with “French style” pastries (a bit expensive, 37kn, that is more than 4€).
- **Buffet Trevisol in Rovinj**: trendy tea room that serves breakfast, sandwiches and cold drinks like homemade iced tea (expensive too).

![Furnished terrace in front of a stone house shaded by an olive tree](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-131-bdb06b7d.webp)

![Restaurant courtyard with laid tables and parasol, bell tower in the background](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-132-146b5ed6.webp)

![Restaurant terrace with turquoise chairs overlooking the village roofs](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-133-01ba5607.webp)

![Pizza with cherry tomatoes and fresh cheese served at the konoba 2.Peron](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-134-799aa4e9.webp)

![Chocolate eclair on a green tray next to the dessert menu](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-135-2dea68a3.webp)

## What we thought of Istria

Istria is a beautiful region of Croatia that offers **varied landscapes**: a fairly nature-focused destination between land and sea, with picturesque little villages to visit, lush green countryside and coastlines to explore. You will find wooded mountains, vineyards, fjords, towns with historic centres and even a coastline with turquoise waters, all at once. The inland area reminded us enormously of our 2020 trip to the Luberon, a region in the south of France that has the same type of landscape and architecture, with villages perched in valleys. But despite all the charm of the region, we did not fall in love with Istria, which did not quite manage to take us out of our element.  
**We still advise you to stop there if you are planning a trip to the north of Croatia or to Slovenia, but for us, it is not the trip to do first in Europe!**

_This article contains affiliate links._

![Istria banner over a coastal path lined with oleanders](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/une-semaine-en-istrie-croatie-136-2ef3ff99.webp)
## 2 comments

- **Margaux Langlois**, 24 May 2023
  Bonjour,

  super article!

  parmi tous les villages visités (Hors côte ouest), si vous deviez en choisir 5 ou 6 ce serait lesquels?

  Merci!
- **Marie** (Voyage sur la comète), 29 May 2023
  Hello Margaux, merci pour ton message ! On retiendrait Grožnjan, Motovun (touristique mais il vaut le coup), Sveti Lovreč, Svetvinčenat (pour son château), Bale et les ruines de Dvigrad ; côté est, Brseč et Mošćenice. N’hésite pas à nous contacter par message sur Instagram si tu as d’autres questions 😊