# A weekend in Caen

> Like every year at the end of June, we head off for a weekend discovering a French town to spend a few days there, without taking the car.

Source: https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/en/blog/weekend-in-caen/
Published on 25 June 2023

Like every year at the end of June, we head off for a weekend discovering a French town to spend a few days there, without taking the car. After Lille and Arcachon, it was in Normandy, in **Caen**, that we decided to put down our little suitcase for almost three days and two nights. We had already visited the town several years ago but without keeping a memorable impression of it, so this weekend was the chance to create some new ones.

Getting there could not be simpler: **[two hours by train](https://fnty.co/c/r-YyyLKAfF)** on the NOMAD service from Saint-Lazare station in Paris for **24.50€ return**. Unbeatable, and impossible to pass up!

Read on to find out everything about the programme of this sunny Normandy weekend.

**_[Find our weekend in the highlighted story on our Instagram account!](https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17961456443401523/)_**

## What to see in Caen

Caen is quite easy to cover on foot over one or two full days, without taking public transport. **Here is the list of the unmissable places not to miss during a visit to Caen, from west to east**:

### The Nice caennais district

As we were staying near this district, we took the chance to walk the long **rue Caponière**, lined with private mansions and historic monuments such as the education authority offices of Normandy or the former monastery of the Visitation. We also discovered the **Nice caennais**, a fairly hidden residential district whose origins go back to the 20th century, at the time when city dwellers were looking for a corner of nature close to the town centre, but without the drawbacks of the city. Today you can still see the remains of this district, once closed off by entrance gates. A very pleasant walk off the beaten track!

![Blue iron gate between two brick and stone pillars](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-02-f2245d90.webp)

![Residential street lined with trees clipped into a tall green screen](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-03-445cc9d8.webp)

![Two tall stone pillars marking the entrance to a shaded avenue](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-04-4bbaa953.webp)

### The Ducal Palace

A magnificent historic monument, the **Ducal Palace** today houses the [Artothèque de Caen](https://www.artotheque-caen.net/) and its contemporary art exhibitions. Even from the outside, the palace is worth a look! When we passed through, the “OUF” exhibition was being installed, so we only had a wander around the building, with free entry. You can also take the chance to admire the back of the Abbaye aux Hommes as well as the Saint-Etienne abbey church.

![Shop set up beneath the gothic vaults of an old hall](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-05-98d1cb82.webp)

![Pale stone facade pierced by a rose window and pointed windows](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-06-db332e54.webp)

![Movable display panels covered with posters in a gallery with a pale wooden floor](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-07-e141bfc4.webp)

### The Saint-Etienne abbey church of Caen

Facing the Ducal Palace is the **Saint-Etienne abbey church**, worth visiting because it holds the tomb of William the Conqueror, an emblematic historical figure of the town of Caen. From the alley on the side of the church, you get direct access to the superb Abbaye aux Hommes.

![Low angle view of the two Romanesque towers of the Saint-Étienne abbey church](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-08-d4d8545f.webp)

![Choir with coloured stained glass and a funerary slab in the middle of the paving](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-09-a63fa378.webp)

![Spire of the abbey church glimpsed through lime tree foliage](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-10-53d13296.webp)

### The Abbaye aux Hommes

A true emblem of the town of Caen, the **Abbaye aux Hommes** is definitely a monument not to miss. The abbey was founded in 1063 by William the Conqueror and is today considered a jewel of medieval architecture. Entry for adults costs **5€** and gives access notably to the cloister, to the permanent exhibition on the Second World War and to the temporary exhibition (on the photographic work of Robert Doisneau when we passed through). The Abbey houses the town hall: we therefore came across many newlyweds and their processions in the cloister while visiting on a Saturday afternoon. Bear that in mind if you want to visit in peace, maybe avoid Saturday!

Do not miss the back of the Abbey on the Ducal Palace side either, because the views over the monument are magnificent. Few tourists think of going behind the Abbey: you will have peace and quiet for your photos!

![Arcaded cloister surrounding a garden of clipped box](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-11-abb47bde.webp)

![Long classical facade of the abbey in front of its patterned flower beds](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-12-6f5a5162.webp)

![Avenue of clipped trees along the abbey, woman walking in a red dress](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-13-b95a6d27.webp)

![Black sculpture in the shape of an elongated face set in the garden](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-14-72d4420c.webp)

![Chevet of the abbey church rising above the flower beds](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-15-5d971076.webp)

![Black and white prints hung in a photography exhibition](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-16-adc5b1b8.webp)

### The historic centre

From the Abbaye aux Hommes, we walked to the **centre of Caen** with its lively shopping streets. A few picturesque streets not to miss: **rue Ecuyère, rue Froide, rue Saint-Pierre**… We really liked strolling around there!

![Busy pedestrian shopping street climbing towards a bell tower](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-17-8643623b.webp)

![Blue shopfront of a neighbourhood grocery and its fruit stall](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-18-723c6c00.webp)

![Brown half timbered gables of a house in the historic centre](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-19-b6cd2260.webp)

### The Hastings district

North-west of the centre is the **residential Hastings district**, very pleasant for ambling around and visiting a few points of interest such as the **Jardin des Plantes** and its tropical greenhouses or the very mysterious and bucolic **Cimetière des Quatre Nations**.

![Pink chair set in the grassy path of a kitchen garden](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-20-66e9e126.webp)

![Red tables and chairs lined up under the glass roof of an orangery](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-21-36142962.webp)

![Beds of perennials and shrubs lining a path in the garden](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-22-7e7f68b3.webp)

![Tropical plants in containers in front of the glass walls of the greenhouse](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-23-e61115a6.webp)

![Planted rockery and palm tree in a shaded corner of the garden](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-24-ad498b31.webp)

![Climbing rose in bloom spilling over the wall of a townhouse](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-25-7b266ecb.webp)

![Stone cross standing among the vegetation of an old cemetery](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-26-fd92e037.webp)

### Caen Castle

From the Jardin des Plantes, we reached **Caen castle** via the rue Bosnières and so discovered the walk around the ramparts. When we passed through at the end of June, the castle grounds were under works (the Musée de Normandie nevertheless stays open for the whole duration of the works), but we were still able to walk around and climb up onto the ramparts. From up there, there is a lovely view over the rooftops of Caen: ideal for golden hour or sunset.

![Castle ramparts decked with flags above a bed of lavender](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-27-3c519bd4.webp)

![Panorama over the rooftops of the city and the spire of Saint-Pierre](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-28-de9532b4.webp)

![Visitor sitting on the stone rampart facing the sun](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-29-8678a0b2.webp)

![Castle wall overlooking the sunken path of the ditch](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-30-67c4a04d.webp)

### Saint-Pierre church of Caen

Facing the castle is the large and impressive **Saint-Pierre church**, which rises to nearly 80 metres. Special mention for its magnificent organ!

![Gothic flank of the Saint-Pierre church and its stone spire](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-31-a06f6a05.webp)

![Gilded organ case beneath the vaults and the stained glass](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-32-9e5e5af0.webp)

![Saint-Pierre church seen from the castle mound, lawn in the foreground](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-33-f383c3e7.webp)

### The harbour and the Presqu'île district

We carried on our way towards the **Caen marina** and the new **Presqu’île district**, which we liked a lot! You can walk along the **quai Vandeuvre** then cross the **pont de l’écluse** to reach the Presqu’île district, its bars and its cultural venues. A walk to do to see something other than the historic town centre! From the marina, we then headed towards the town's second abbey, the Abbaye aux Dames.

![Summer terrace with colourful parasols under a green glass structure](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-34-5745482f.webp)

![Harbour basin framed by the trunk of a large plane tree](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-35-47ecb943.webp)

![Contemporary buildings of the Presqu'île reflected in the basin](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-36-a8eaf333.webp)

### Abbaye aux Dames

So, off to the abbey church of the **Abbaye aux Dames**, which holds the tomb of Matilda of Flanders, wife of William the Conqueror. A really magnificent site that you can [visit with a guide](https://www.caenlamer-tourisme.fr/loisirs/visite-guidee-de-labbaye-aux-dames/), with access to the crypt, every afternoon, for 5€ per person. Above all do not miss the Michel d’Ornano park, behind the abbey, where the views over the monument are magnificent.

![Romanesque facade with two towers of the Abbaye aux Dames](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-37-a3182b89.webp)

![Lawn and clipped hedges of the garden in front of the abbey](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-38-f255ef4b.webp)

![White vaulted nave with its chairs lined up towards the choir](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-39-6e8d52fd.webp)

![Yellow Normandie letters in the courtyard, visitor in a red skirt](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-40-9b3ea1d8.webp)

### Vaugueux district

A last walking idea in Caen: the **Vaugueux district**, very picturesque with its old half-timbered houses. This is where you will find many restaurants and bars: ideal for a drink in the early evening, especially in summer.

![Place du Vaugueux, half timbered house and restaurant terraces](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-41-827d8963.webp)

![Vaugueux lane filled with occupied tables on the terrace](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-42-14eb8eb2.webp)

## What to see in Ouistreham

During our weekend at the end of June, we endured (or enjoyed, depending on your point of view) the heatwave that hit Normandy. So we decided to head for the coast to try to find a bit more coolness and to enjoy the beach before our return to Paris.

**_Getting to Ouistreham from Caen_**: you need to take bus 12 or 12E (stop at the Caen SNCF station). The bus ticket costs **1.60€** and is valid for one hour (you can buy it by SMS directly on the bus or at the terminal at the stop). The journey takes **30 minutes** between the SNCF station and the Ouistreham lighthouse.

Getting off the bus, we went straight to the Ouistreham lighthouse to start our walk on the **pointe du Siège**, a protected natural area listed Natura 2000 in the Orne estuary. The path (with no shade) runs along the beach and goes past the **observation tower**, after about 20-25 minutes' walk from the lighthouse. From the top of the tower, there is a superb view over the sea and the estuary: apparently you can even spot seals from there, but we did not have that luck. We really recommend this walk on the headland, the landscapes are very beautiful and it lets you escape the city.

![Estuary and sandbanks seen from the vegetated dunes](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-43-2a53b55d.webp)

![Woman leaning on a wooden observation hide facing the bay](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-44-ffe7543e.webp)

![Sandy path winding through the dunes towards the beach](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-45-ffb56292.webp)

We then made our way to the town centre and walked along the **avenue de la mer**, the shopping street that leads to the Ouistreham beach with all its shops and restaurants. At the end of the avenue you discover the **Riva Bella beach** with its **big wheel**: the ideal place to lay down your towel and enjoy the sea. To get back to Caen, we took the bus again at the **“Riva Centre” stop**, as far as the SNCF station.

![White big wheel standing on the sandy beach](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-46-f0d56cd8.webp)

![White lighthouse with a red crown overlooking the harbour of Ouistreham](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-47-4f658b4a.webp)

![Low angle view of the cabins and spokes of the big wheel](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-48-e869348a.webp)

## Where we stayed in Caen

We chose to stay in a private room in someone's home, in the centre of Caen, ten minutes' walk from the Abbaye aux Hommes. We can only recommend this room found on [Airbnb](https://www.airbnb.fr/rooms/29403478?source_impression_id=p3_1691673772_mHhp%2FSmdFfY10Brz) for **70€ for 2 nights** if you are looking for budget accommodation for a weekend! The room is very cosy, quiet, looking out over the rooftops and gardens of Caen. We had the impression of having the flat all to ourselves because we did not once bump into the owner, who kept unusual hours. Unbeatable value for money!

## Our favourite places to eat in Caen

- ❤️ **[Eat on stage](https://www.google.com/maps/place/eat+ON+STAGE+by+Pierre+Lefebvre/@49.1851159,-0.3624653,17z/data=!4m14!1m7!3m6!1s0x480a438d31d6d98d:0xe4cf73c5db520117!2seat+ON+STAGE+by+Pierre+Lefebvre!8m2!3d49.1851124!4d-0.3598904!16s%2Fg%2F11jwl_0ncg!3m5!1s0x480a438d31d6d98d:0xe4cf73c5db520117!8m2!3d49.1851124!4d-0.3598904!16s%2Fg%2F11jwl_0ncg?entry=ttu)**: a very good place for eating puccias, Italian burgers with bread typical of Puglia (eat in or take away); 25.70€ for 2 puccias, 1 portion of chips and 1 dessert
- ❤️ **[Crêperie Gaby](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Cr%C3%AAperie+Gaby/@49.1853211,-0.3604507,18.25z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0x480a4329b1bfeef7:0xf09e0735601052a3!8m2!3d49.185383!4d-0.3601012!16s%2Fg%2F11q2rz5y_0?entry=ttu)**: an excellent modern crêperie with very pretty decor and original galettes; 27.50€ for 2 galettes and 1 juice
- **[Waïha Poké Bar](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Waiiha+-+pok%C3%A9+bar+%28Caen%29/@49.1819221,-0.37032,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x480a4351a48548b9:0xe2ec9b1c1b0d27f6!8m2!3d49.1819186!4d-0.3677451!16s%2Fg%2F11j615rnnn?entry=ttu))**: a good place for eating something fresher; 14.50€ the large poke
- **[Le Schmiblic](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Le+Schmilblic/@49.1837633,-0.3687058,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x480a42bfb4683565:0x7b2846af7600543b!8m2!3d49.1837598!4d-0.3661309!16s%2Fg%2F1tj2h8fh?entry=ttu)**: for a homemade burger on the go; 7.50€ the tomme de Savoie burger
- **[Boulangerie-pâtisserie Calou](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Boulangerie+P%C3%A2tisserie+%22Calou%22/@49.1817545,-0.3786732,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x480a4360ec78f3a5:0xaa6c72b4aecfa61a!8m2!3d49.181751!4d-0.3760983!16s%2Fg%2F11fkdmrq4d?entry=ttu)**: a very good bakery right next to our accommodation on the rue Caponière; 2.90€ the slice of Normandy apple tart
- **[Atelier Rambaud](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Atelier+Rambaud/@49.1835519,-0.3682365,17z/data=!3m2!4b1!5s0x480a42be4a311b5b:0xe501484a1097de46!4m6!3m5!1s0x480a433086578ca7:0xe8c108e3e4cb4d62!8m2!3d49.1835484!4d-0.3656616!16s%2Fg%2F11ph19rjbs?entry=ttu)**: a good spot for something sweet on the rue Froide; 5€ for 2 scoops of ice cream and 4.30€ the entremet
- ❤️ **[C&Choux](https://www.google.com/maps/place/C%26+Choux/@49.183506,-0.3657673,21z/data=!3m1!5s0x480a42be4a311b5b:0xe501484a1097de46!4m14!1m7!3m6!1s0x480a433086578ca7:0xe8c108e3e4cb4d62!2sAtelier+Rambaud!8m2!3d49.1835484!4d-0.3656616!16s%2Fg%2F11ph19rjbs!3m5!1s0x480a432e697d24a9:0xda510ff42f1e7c6a!8m2!3d49.1834771!4d-0.3656284!16s%2Fg%2F11kc8kqjy8?entry=ttu)**: a new choux pastry shop on the rue Froide; 11€ for 6 choux, very good!
- **[Alban Guilmet](https://www.google.com/maps/place/P%C3%A2tisserie+Alban+Guilmet/@49.1831593,-0.3633934,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x480a42fd2d66f353:0x2b877af0378e7864!8m2!3d49.1831558!4d-0.3608185!16s%2Fg%2F1v9gtvrn?entry=ttu)**: a well known patisserie in Caen; 1.40€ the macaron and 5.20€ the entremet
- **[Maison Candy’s](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Maison+Candy's/@49.2875959,-0.2608518,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x480a63fe5e372707:0x6b5b870db49595ed!8m2!3d49.2875924!4d-0.2582769!16s%2Fg%2F11f3nm884x?entry=ttu) in Ouistreham**: not the best ice creams we have ever eaten but it cools you down nicely; 4€ for 2 flavours

**_[Find more photos in the highlighted story on our Instagram account!](https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17961456443401523/)_**

![Slice of apple tart held in the hand in front of the abbey church](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-49-3242739d.webp)

## What we thought of Caen

Caen was a lovely surprise for us! We did not have many memories of our visit to the town several years ago, so it was almost a complete discovery. We found the town very pleasant for spending a restorative weekend, not far from Paris, [easily reachable by train](https://fnty.co/c/r-YyyLKAfF). With its rich historical heritage and its lovely places to eat, Caen is a pretty destination to discover without delay. Its closeness to the sea and the coast gives it a certain appeal: what could be better than going to the beach after a day out in town.  
**So, if you are looking for an idea for a weekend** **without a car (from Paris for example) combining cultural visits, walks in beautiful neighbourhoods and a trip to the seaside, think of Caen!**

Need ideas for your weekends and holidays in France? Read [our articles about our beautiful country](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/en/destinations/france/)!

![Visitor sitting on pink cushions facing the Abbaye aux Hommes](https://voyagesurlacomete.fr/photos/2026/un-week-end-a-caen-55-f1ab606c.webp)
## 2 comments

- **Caroline**, 12 August 2023
  Ce sont toujours les cordonniers qui sont les plus mal chaussés ! Normande originaire de Rouen mais finalement je connais très peu la Normandie ! C’est toujours rigolo d’en découvrir plus sur sa région par les yeux et les expériences des autres ! Avez-vous visité Rouen ? Je suis sure que vous aimeriez beaucoup
  - **Marie** (Voyage sur la comète), 14 August 2023
    C’est souvent le cas en effet, on connaît toujours mieux les régions voisines ! Nous sommes déjà allés à Rouen il y a longtemps mais on aimerait beaucoup y retourner 😍