4 days in Porto

We took advantage of the long All Saints’ weekend to head to Portugal, to Porto! For the record, we had already planned to go there in November 2020 but the health situation in France at that time had stopped us from leaving. So it was only postponed, because we were able to fly off for four days in Porto this year! Going in November seemed a good idea to avoid the crowds of tourists during the summer period in particular. You should know that Porto is a very damp city, with a lot of rainfall due to its location on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. So we had a few showers and gloomy weather on some days, as well as one day of glorious sunshine, but that did not stop us from sightseeing.

What to see in Porto

Miragaia district (west)

The former Jewish quarter of Miragaia in the west of Porto has a lot to offer and we were almost alone there! This district is more authentic and quieter than the historic heart for example, with its often deserted cobbled streets and its many gardens. We also saw a great many tempting restaurants there, including fine dining spots that caught our eye. A few points of interest not to be missed in this district:

• Parque das Virtudes: terraced gardens with lovely views over the Douro and over Vila Nova de Gaia, the district on the opposite bank
• Rua de Miguel Bombarda: a long street lined with many restaurants
• Soares dos Reis Museum: an art museum inside an 18th century palace
• ❤️ Jardins do Palacio de Cristal: Porto’s essential landscaped park where it feels good to stroll; with magnificent views over the Douro
• Museu da Cidade – Extensão do Romantismo: a small free museum inside the park (a visit that is not essential but if you walk past it, spend a quarter of an hour there). Note: a fine dining restaurant is right next door (Antiqvvm).

Bolhão district (east)

We walked through this Bolhão district many times because we were staying there, rua Formosa. It is a lively district full of shops where you find many traditional bakeries, restaurants and cafés. Do not miss in the district:

• ❤️ Mercado do Bolhão: the district’s essential covered market where you find local produce, fresh juices and a bit of craftwork. Tables and chairs are also available to enjoy your breakfast for example.
• Rua Santa Catarina: the famous shopping avenue of Porto with many shops and buildings whose façades are covered in azulejos; on this street is the belle époque style Café Majestic (expect a long queue).
• Capela das Almas: one of the churches known for its blue azulejos (free entry)
• Igreja Paroquial de Santo Ildefonso: the second azulejo church the district is famous for (1€ to visit the inside)

Foz de Douro

We took advantage of our only day of “real” good weather to go to the ocean and get out of the city of Porto. From the gardens of the Crystal Palace, we went down towards the Douro and followed the river as far as Foz de Douro. Allow about 45 minutes on foot to cover the 4 kilometres to the sea. It is also possible to get there by public transport, with bus 500 or tram 1. We advise you to do at least the outward journey on foot because the path is really pleasant: it lets you discover the mouth of the river Douro and wander by the water. For the way back, we did not have the patience to wait for the bus – which was not coming – and so took an electric scooter to go faster.

We did not really have expectations about the little seaside town of Foz and it was a lovely surprise! The town centre is very cute with many colourful houses. It would be a shame to miss it if you have more than two or three days in Porto. After a good lunch, we went to the edge of the beach and walked back up towards the Farol de Felgueiras lighthouse. It felt like being in summer in the middle of November with the sun beating down!

Our accommodation in Porto

We rented an entire flat on Airbnb for 366€ for the 4 nights, ideally located in the Bolhão district, rua Formosa, close to the metro, the shops and the covered market. Like (almost) all the places in Porto that look onto the street, there was obviously a bit of noise from cars going by on the cobbles. We still recommend it because the flat is completely renovated and its location let us get around Porto exclusively on foot!

Our favourite places to eat in Porto

• Confeitaria do Bolhão: an essential bakery-café in the district; take away and settle in opposite in the market.
• Manteigaria – Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata: a good place to discover this legendary pastry; 1.20€ the pasteis de nata.
• Gelatopia): a good ice cream shop that also offers waffles and crêpes (5.50€ for the crêpe and hot chocolate deal for example).
• Suspiro: a good patisserie in the heart of WOW Porto with design-led, contemporary decor; around 3€ for a dessert.
• ❤️ éLeBê Baixa: an excellent fine dining restaurant with a hushed atmosphere; 78€ for two (2 soups, 2 starters, 2 mains and 2 desserts).
• ❤️ Oficina dos Rissóis: a restaurant that revisits the famous Portuguese turnovers; 23€ for 4 turnovers, a soup, a risotto and a dessert (you can take away with a deposit system).
• Cocorico: a magnificent, intimate place perfect for dinner (also offers premium guest rooms); 38€ for croquettes, a ceviche, sardines and a tuna terrine.
• 7g Roaster: a restaurant and coffee shop hidden in a courtyard in the Vila Nova Gaia district; 26.50€ for two.
• Empanadas Malvón: a good place to eat quickly and not too expensively; 17€ for 6 empanadas and 2 drinks.
• Pizza Café da Luz in Foz de Douro: a good place that offers pizzas, salads (10€) and wraps (7€).

What we thought of Porto

We had had Porto in mind for several years! And for a first visit, we rather liked the city – despite very fickle weather at the end of October. Porto has its charm, with its steep lanes and its buildings covered in azulejos. Three or four days are enough to discover this typical city and to try a few good places to eat.
Porto is definitely a city to see at least once in your life, an essential city trip in Europe! If you are looking for a destination idea for a long weekend, close to France, between culture, nature and gastronomy, you can go for Porto.