A day at Lake Como

In Milan for a three-day weekend, we took the chance to discover a tiny part of Lake Como, a legendary lake we had been dreaming about for several years. While it is often (and more easily) explored by road, you should know that the lake is also reachable by train. A godsend when you are in Milan for only a few days and you do not want to hire a car.

So we took the regional train (run by Trenord) at Milano Centrale station towards Como San Giovanni, the station located west of the town, about ten minutes on foot from the lake. The journey takes 40 minutes and costs only 5€ one way per person. We bought our tickets directly at the machine in the station hall a few minutes before setting off in the morning. Remember to be a bit early if you want seats: many people stood for the whole journey!

What to see in one day at Lake Como

We arrived early in the morning in Como because we wanted to make the most of the whole day to discover as much as possible. Coming out of the station, we started by looking for a good bakery so we could have breakfast by the lake – here (see our pick further down in the article). Even though the weather was quite overcast and gloomy, we walked along the lake and passed the Monumento ai Caduti then the Volta temple. This is where you can see the many seaplanes that fly over the lake take off: an impressive ballet! The Lungolago Mafalda di Savoia promenade runs along the lake and brings you out in front of Como’s historic centre.

Como

Como’s historic centre is worth the detour and deserves a few hours of visiting. You just have to wander through the cobbled lanes to feel the pulse of the town, away from the very busy, touristy shopping streets. A few monuments not to be missed:

• Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta – Duomo di Como: a more miniature replica of the famous Duomo in Milan. Only a small part of the cathedral is free but it still lets you admire the interior architecture of the monument.
• Chiesa di San Giacomo: a church with ochre walls located on a pretty square next to the cathedral.
• Basilica di San Fedele: a small shortcut through a public garden from Via Vittorio Emanuele brings you out in front of the basilica. Do not miss it!
• Porta Torre: the medieval gate that closes the town to the south.

Lungolago Viale Geno

Also venture onto the Lungolago Viale Geno promenade, which goes up towards the north (to the right when you are facing the lake). This embankment offers pretty views over the town of Como and the mountains that overlook it. We passed in front of the departure point of the Como-Brunate funicular, which we did not have time to do. Given the queue that had formed, it is better to take it at the end of the day! The funicular leads to the village of Brunate; from there, a path sets off to the Volta lighthouse.

Passeggiata Lino Gelpi

On the other side of the town is the Passeggiata Lino Gelpi, that long tree-lined promenade which runs along the lake and the villas. On our side, we walked it at the end of the day, before taking the train back, as far as the gardens of the Villa Olmo. Not to be missed if you come to Como!

Lake Como being more than just Como, we wanted to discover a more authentic, more “natural” part of the lake and so decided to take the bus to go further north. A wide bus network serves all the municipalities located along the steep banks.

Our choice fell on Nesso: a small stone village, reachable by bus C30. Tickets are bought directly at the machine in the bus station located on a roundabout by the lake. The one-way trip to Nesso (piazza castello stop) costs 2.60€ per person. The buses are often packed: do not be surprised if you cannot find a seat! Nevertheless, the beauty of the landscapes makes you forget the discomfort! The winding road runs along the lake up high and so offers magnificent viewpoints.

Nesso

Nesso is a typical Lake Como village known in particular for its gorges (Orrido di Nesso) and its old stone bridge. Getting off the bus, we took the path that drops steeply to the right of the bridge. This lower part of the village is really tiny, so we quickly reached the lake. From there, you can admire the old stone houses overlooking the water. One of the finest viewpoints over the bridge is at the steps that go down to the water. In early October, the neighbouring houses were covered in ivy in autumn colours: magnificent! You then have to take the stone bridge to find yourself on the other side and get a magnificent view over the lake. If you are patient, you may be lucky enough to see a boat coming towards the village. A picturesque snapshot guaranteed!

From the viewpoint on the other side of the bridge, we walked back up the steps, which are a bit hidden, and carried on along the dirt path that leads to the main road. Enough for a lovely loop! The second part of the village is above the road – the starting point being at the bus stop. So we began the climb up to the heights of Nesso where we were alone all afternoon! Few people venture up there. To get back to Como, you take the bus on the bridge.

Our favourite places to eat in Como

• Gelateria Lariana : a day in Italy means ice cream. A good place by the lake in Como, a few steps from Piazza Cavour. 2.50€ for the small tub with two flavours. Special mention for the marron glacé ice cream with chestnut cream and pieces of marron glacé!
• Gelateria Vertigo : a second ice cream shop in Como which also offers waffles. A big choice of chocolate ice creams (several origins).
• ❤️ Passion Como : the place to go in Como’s historic centre to eat very well and cheaply! Delicious homemade paninis, very generous for only 5€. A very big choice of local cured meats and cheeses – do not hesitate to go into the tiny shop even if it does not look like much.
• Il Forno : a bakery located not far from the station if, like us, you are looking for something for breakfast or an afternoon snack by the lake.

What we thought of Lake Como

We had wanted to discover this famous lake for a long time and we were not disappointed! It has to be said that the fact the lake is easily reachable from Milan, without a car, is a real strong point. However, going there for a single day was only a taster and this little excursion made us want to go back another time for longer.
We cannot recommend enough that you include a day at Lake Como (or more, if you can) if you go to Milan! Perhaps to be discovered outside the high summer season because the lake’s reputation attracts many tourists from all over the world.

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