Three days in Vancouver

I had the huge luck of discovering western Canada during a work trip to Vancouver in March. So I took the chance to take a few days off and spend three full days discovering this city at the end of the world with two of my colleagues and friends. I won’t drag out the suspense any longer: I completely fell for Vancouver, for the atmosphere, for its incredible landscapes between city and nature… I fully intend to go back as a couple on a longer trip to western Canada.

The city is nicknamed “Raincouver” by its inhabitants, because it rains more there than in the other Canadian cities! I must have been enormously lucky, because it only rained for half a day during my stay and there was even radiant sunshine for a whole day.

Even if a three-day stay may seem short, it’s enough to give yourself an overview of the city and of the main places in this British Columbia metropolis. So here are my favourite places to eat and a few must-sees not to be missed on a first visit to Vancouver!

What to see in Vancouver

Downtown Vancouver

Having come to Vancouver for a work event that was taking place in a hotel on the waterfront, I was able to make the most of a few breaks on the first day to discover, in the sunshine, the pretty views over Vancouver Harbour and over North Vancouver. It was the first time I’d seen a water aerodrome (Harbour Flight) and it has to be said that it’s quite a change of scene and pretty impressive! I stayed a few minutes watching the ballet of planes gliding over the water, going back and forth between the city centre and the north shore. Nearby, there’s a pier with the Canada Place convention centre, where I went back the following morning (in dreary weather), before starting my visit of central Vancouver.

With my friends, we then headed for the small historic and trendy district of Gastown, which lies between the port and the glass towers of Downtown Vancouver. Because of the bad weather, we didn’t linger, but one of the attractions not to miss is the steam clock (Steam Clock) on Water Street, which has become the emblem of the district. I had come by there the previous evening and Gastown was lit up with lots of fairy lights and big round street lamps that give a retro atmosphere to this old brick district.

After quickly crossing a few streets where drug addicts were hanging about (unfortunately quite numerous in central Vancouver), we reached Chinatown to visit the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Chinese garden, entry to which is free. The contrast between the traditional Chinese architecture of the temples and the modern towers is quite striking: the garden is worth a look. You should know that Chinatown in Vancouver is the largest Asian district in Canada!

The Seawall

The Seawall is that path, both pedestrian and cycle, that goes round Vancouver, from Stanley Park through Downtown, carrying on towards Granville Island and continuing along the coast towards Kitsilano, Pacific Spirit Regional Park and UBC. This is where Vancouverites, who are known for having a rather healthy lifestyle, walk and meet: so I came across plenty of cyclists, walkers and joggers on this path.

For our last day in Vancouver, we had decided to set off for the whole day on foot and to take the Seawall from our Airbnb near Kitsilano (in front of Volunteer Park) to get to our final destination at the end of the day: Stanley Park. So we took a big loop through Kitsilano Beach, Vanier Park, Burrard Marina to arrive at Granville Island at lunchtime. After our meal taken at the central market, we took a boat to reach Downtown and Sunset Beach Park. We then walked towards English Bay to admire the Inukshuk, then towards Second Beach to head east, towards Lost Lagoon, Bayhore West Marina and finally the entrance to Stanley Park by the totems. As my friend had to catch her flight very early the next day, she went back to the Airbnb, so I carried on the route alone and set about walking round Stanley Park at a brisk pace, so as not to miss the sunset over the Pacific Ocean. Once back at English Bay after nightfall, and after a quick dinner, I took the chance to go to Robson Street to buy a few souvenirs and I took the bus back to Kitsilano. An exhausting but unforgettable day!

From Kitsilano to Burrard Marina

From our accommodation, before reaching Kitsilano beach, we passed by plenty of small parks that line the sea: Volunteer Park, Margaret Piggot Park and Point Grey Park. If you go closer, you can enjoy a magnificent view over the Vancouver skyline as well as over the mountains north of the city. The district is fairly upmarket and chic, so we were able to use this walk to admire the plush houses of Kitsilano. Even though the sky was very cloudy and grey, the walk to Vanier Park was very pleasant: as the path is 100% pedestrian, you aren’t bothered by cars. In spring or in summer, I imagine it must be even prettier with leaves on the trees.
As for Vanier Park, it’s a vast lawn surrounded by the ocean, where several museums are located, including the Museum of Vancouver and the city’s Maritime Museum. Several fairly monumental works of art punctuate the route. Before reaching Granville Island, we went along the Island Park Walk, in front of the marina, and were able to see luxurious residences facing Downtown…

Granville Island

Granville Island is a renovated former industrial district, best known for its famous market, where you find all the local produce, craft work but also world cuisines. This is where we had lunch: you can choose your meal at whichever stall you like and settle down at the tables in the central aisle. The place is rather big, but despite the crowd, it stays quite friendly and authentic! The rest of the island is full of small workshops, shops and micro-breweries: it almost makes you think of a film set. From the island, we took a shuttle for a short trip to the “Aquatic Center Ferry Dock“ stop, which costs only a few dollars, to reach the other bank. We were lucky because the sky was starting to clear and turn blue!

English Bay

We then followed the path past Sunset Beach, English Bay Beach and on to Vancouver West End and the entrance to Stanley Park. One of the major attractions of these beaches is the large Inuit sculpture, the Inukshuk, at English Bay, facing the Pacific Ocean. They were once used to indicate directions for navigators. A certain calm reigned here, between the sound of the waves, the sun’s rays that were starting to warm up gently and the quiet of the surrounding nature. I warmly recommend this walk before starting your visit of Stanley Park!

Stanley Park

Stanley Park is a bit of a compulsory stop when you come to Vancouver. This huge nature park of 404 hectares lies north of the city centre. It’s easy to reach on foot or by bike: an 8-kilometre panoramic route (Stanley Park Seawall Path) goes round it, and that’s the one I decided to take, from east to west, to discover the park at sunset. Visiting this park with the view over the Pacific at sundown was one of the most beautiful moments of my stay… the colours were sublime, I almost had the park to myself as it was a Sunday at the end of the day. A magical moment!

We first went past Bayshore West Marina, a marina that lies between the West Vancouver district and Stanley Park, at the edge of the Seawall. So I passed by there on my way to the Totems, when I was walking along the Stanley Park path: it’s a fairly quiet place where nature and the city are in perfect harmony.

Bayshore West Marina

Totem poles, Brockton Point, “Girl in a Wetsuit” and “S.S. Empress of Japan Figurehead Replica”, Lions Gate Bridge

Sunset over Siwash Rock

The beaches from Jericho Beach to Spanish Banks Beach

A short chronological step back to tell you about the third day of my stay in Vancouver. I spent the day on my own cycling along the coastal path from Kitsilano to the western tip of Vancouver, towards the University of British Columbia (UBC). Weather-wise, it couldn’t have been better, because the sky was very clear and a pure blue, without clouds, and temperatures were around 10 degrees. The ride on the cycle path is really very pleasant because it runs close to the beaches and offers magnificent views over the mountains of North Vancouver and over the Pacific.
I made a first stop at Jericho beach (deserted at that time of year), which was strewn with tree trunks. One of my favourite spots was without doubt the viewpoint over the city centre towers: incredible! A bit further on is Jericho Pier, a jetty that reaches out into the Ocean: a pretty spot for taking photos! On the other side of the pier is Locarno Beach, smaller and wilder than its neighbour, and finally Spanish Banks Beach, where the waterside cycle path ends.

From Pacific Regional Park to UBC

I then rode along the side of the road and through Pacific Spirit Regional Park to reach the Museum of Anthropology, which I only admired from the outside. In front of the building stand numerous totems that recall the culture of the First Nations in this region of western Canada.

The museum is near the huge campus of the University of British Columbia (UBC), so I took the chance to cycle around it, to discover the countless teaching and residential buildings this university has. I got the impression it was a city within the city, the size of the campus is so impressive. UBC was the last stop of this day on a bike, which was full of discoveries: I can only advise you to do this ride on the Seawall path, by bike… unforgettable!

My accommodation in Vancouver

If this trip was so perfect in my eyes, it’s partly thanks to the place unearthed on Airbnb. With my friends, we had booked a private room in a charming house with a garden in the trendy district of Kitsilano, for 223€ for 3 nights for 3 people. The host was adorable (chocolates and a thank-you card were waiting for us in the room) and away all the time because of his work, so we had the house all to ourselves! The interior was cosy and very well decorated, with a fireplace and a welcoming living room for Netflix evenings. The house is ideally located for visiting Vancouver, by bike (lent by the host!), on foot or by bus (just a few metres from the house). I recommend it!

My favourite places to eat in Vancouver

• Thomas Haas: a very good, fairly upmarket pâtisserie in the Kitsilano district. The prices are quite high but the desserts are delicious!
• Naam Restaurant: a delicious vegetarian restaurant that offers generous, not too expensive dishes, in the Kitsilano district.
• D’oro Gelato e Caffe: a good place near English Bay Beach that offers ice creams, desserts but also homemade Italian sandwiches.

What we thought of Vancouver

Vancouver is one of my most beautiful discoveries during my eight-month stay in Canada. Even though my trip was short, it will stay etched in my memory, the city won me over and moved me at times. I was charmed by this big city with its many landscapes and its exceptional setting, nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the mountains of North Vancouver. While the city centre isn’t the place I liked best, the wide open natural spaces (like Stanley Park), the coasts and the beaches have that little something that leaves you full of admiration for their immensity. One thing is certain: I’ll go back!
I can only recommend that you stay in the quiet districts outside the centre, like Kitsilano, to get a taste of the city’s calm. From there, you can do everything by bike or on foot (if you have the energy!) to enjoy the magnificent landscapes Vancouver offers at your own pace.

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