Croatia

Three days in Split

In April 2021, I had the huge luck of winning a competition run by My Little Trip.

3 October 2021

In April 2021, I had the huge luck of winning a competition run by My Little Trip. This young new generation travel agency offers a monthly subscription system thanks to which you go on a surprise trip 3 times a year (3 days, 2 nights). How it works? You choose your dates and a few criteria, and My Little Trip organises the rest! Destination, transport and accommodation are therefore chosen by the agency, which sends you a postcard revealing the destination only a month before departure.

At the start of September, we found out where we were going to spend the first weekend of October: Split! Our second time in Croatia in the space of a few months. We had indeed discovered the Istria region that summer and had really liked it.
If you want to discover our road trip in Istria, it’s this way!

This first experience with My Little Trip went very well! The idea was also to let go of organising the trip (of which I (Marie) am a bit of an aficionado!). We can only recommend their services, which can also be a very lovely gift idea.

How to get to Split

We flew out on the Friday morning and came back on the Sunday evening, with the airline Transavia from Orly airport. Once at the airport, you absolutely must withdraw cash from the machines in the hall because the shuttles and buses don’t take credit cards. So we took the airport/centre shuttle, which drops travellers at Split’s bus station (by the port). For the return on the Sunday, the shuttles only run every hour so we had to take a taxi to get to the airport (27€ for the ride).

What to see in Split

The historic centre

The heart of Split isn’t huge and is easily covered on foot: all the points of interest are therefore very close to each other. Our only tip: don’t follow a map and wander through Split’s cobbled streets to discover the architecture. From east to west, you’ll find:

Republic Square, with its red and green buildings
The Croatian national theatre, further north of the centre
The People’s Square (Narodni Trg)
Braće Radić Square

Red arcaded facade and cafe terraces by the sea

Corner of a white stone building with shop windows at street level

Busy shopping street between old walls and shops

Square stone tower seen from below between two facades

Woman in a floral dress in a cobbled lane lined with bougainvillea

Narrow lane with high stone walls and green shutters

Croatian red and white chequered coat of arms carved on a wall

Stone courtyard with an outside staircase and potted plants

Curved neoclassical facade with wrought iron balconies

Large square lined with red arcades under a blue sky

You also mustn’t miss the underground chambers of the city of Split, part of which is accessible free of charge. The other, paying part is part of the City Museum (cash payment only). That’s where you’ll find souvenir shops and Croatian craft shops.

Vaulted passage and staircase leading down to lit stalls

Vast vaulted underground hall with bare stone walls

Vaulted gallery filled with souvenir stalls

Lit vaulted cellars with shops and an arch at the far end

Diocletian’s Palace

Diocletian’s Palace is one of the best preserved Roman buildings in the world! It’s the main attraction of Split’s historic centre. This former imperial palace is surrounded by walls and gates, some of which are still well preserved today, like the Golden Gate or the Iron Gate. The site is accessible free of charge but to go inside the monuments, you have to buy a pass at the ticket office, on the Peristyle square. We went for the most complete pass at 80 kn, which lets you visit St Domnius cathedral, the crypt, the temple of Jupiter, the Treasury museum and go up the clock tower. What’s really worth a look for us: the cathedral and the bell tower. You also mustn’t miss the Vestibule, a former monumental forecourt.

Arcaded facade of the palace and visitors on the esplanade

Vaulted stone passage opening onto a busy street

Ruined Roman gate and stalls set up at the foot of the arcades

Cathedral bell tower seen from below against a blue sky

Columns of the peristyle and the campanile seen from below

Circular vestibule open to the sky through a wide oculus

Bronze statue beneath a carved coffered ceiling

Vaulted crypt with a flagstone floor and rough stone walls

Tiled roofs, bay and hills seen from the bell tower

Gilded baroque altar beneath the columns of a chapel

Wooded hill overlooking the orange roofs and the harbour

Ancient columns in front of a stone house with shutters

The Riva

The Riva is the palm lined pedestrian promenade that runs along the sea. All along it are bars and restaurants that keep this embankment lively by day as by night. It’s an unavoidable stop in Split!

Seafront promenade lined with palm trees and turquoise water

Wooden galleon moored at the quay in front of the bell tower

Paved esplanade, palm trees and a row of cafe terraces

Lit palm trees on the promenade at blue hour

Oleanders in bloom along the palm lined promenade

The port

From the small port jetty, you get a superb overall view of Split’s city centre. This is where to come if you want to take photos of the Riva and the cathedral’s bell tower.

Woman in a red dress between two moored boats

Fishing boats moored in front of the tree lined seafront

Couple embracing at the edge of the quay, a seagull in flight

Marjan hill

The Marjan forest park is a real protected green lung close to the city centre. The start of the steps to climb to the top of the hill is here, in the Varos district. We went up twice: the first time at the end of the day, before sunset, and the second, in the afternoon.
At the top of the steps, a belvedere gives you a panoramic view over the whole city of Split and the mountains behind it.

Panorama over the town and the bay from a wooded path

Woman leaning on a panoramic railing above the rooftops

We then climbed towards St Nicholas Church and carried on up to the Vidikovac viewpoint. From there, you get a stunning view over the sea and the islands opposite. A perfect spot for golden hour and sunset! So we took the chance to take photos in that beautiful light. The park is huge and also includes a circuit around chapels but we didn’t have time to do it.

Gravel path leading to a stone chapel among the cypresses

Small stone chapel with a wooden door and cypresses

Woman in a floral dress sitting on a low wall facing the open sea

White chapel with a bell turret at the end of a gravel path

Sparkling sea and pine wood seen from the ridge path

Man standing on a promontory in the golden light

Wooden cross set on a rock above the sea

Wooded peninsula standing out against the sea at dusk

Woman in a red dress backlit under the pines

Large rock on the ridge, islands on the horizon at sunset

Woman standing in front of a white bench and a stone wall

The Varos district

The Varos district is west of the city centre and includes the Marjan forest park. It’s a more picturesque district where there are fewer tourists than in the historic heart. We really liked getting lost in the maze of lanes (which sometimes climb) and coming across beautiful stone houses.
From the small fishing port, we followed the embankment along the sea and came out at the marina, in Sustipan park. For us it’s a must-see in Split! The park is really very beautiful, with its typical Mediterranean vegetation and its magnificent sea views. It’s a quiet place, far enough from the city centre to feel like a change of scene.

White sailing boat on the sea, pine branches in the foreground

Woman sitting on a white bench under the umbrella pines

Pines and agaves framing the sea lit by the low sun

Woman sitting on a white bench near a flowering agave

We then carried on walking to Kasjuni Beach to admire the sunset. It’s not an essential stop but if you have time, it lets you see other landscapes. Watch out for the walk there though: some stretches are on a two way road, with no pavement, which can be a bit dangerous. Kasjuni Beach isn’t the most beautiful beach we saw, as it’s quite built up.

Sun setting over the sea, dark rocks in the foreground

Olive trees and pines under a pink sky at dusk

Woman in a floral dress standing on the rocks by the shore

Our accommodation in Split

My Little Trip booked us a room in the quiet Varos district of Split, ideally located close to the sea and the historic centre. We stayed at the Sperone Heritage Hotel (in the Double Luxury Room), which we can only recommend! This intimate 4-star hotel offers lovely rooms renovated with taste, with an outdoor pool and a spa (sauna, jacuzzi). Ideal for a romantic stay! We booked breakfast as an extra, served as a sweet and savoury buffet (less than 7€ per person).

Room with exposed beams, a white bed and a glass shower

Breakfast room with green armchairs and a plant wall

Lit swimming pool in an enclosed courtyard after dark

Man stepping into an illuminated blue pool in the evening

Our favourite places to eat in Split

Pizzeria Bokamorra: our culinary favourite, we went twice! Excellent Neapolitan pizzas with original flavours at reasonable prices. Special mention for the quirky decor. For 2 pizzas and a bottle of water: 185 kn (25€) and 210 kn (28€).
Bokeria kitchen & wine bar: a very well-known spot in Split, the dining room is never empty. Very good dishes, a little expensive though. For two starters, one main and two desserts: 57€.
Gelateria Emiliana: delicious ice creams in the heart of Split. 12 kn a scoop (cash payment). Lavender/lemon, peach/rose, pistachio…
Ela’s Icecream & more: another very good place for ice cream. 12 kn a scoop (cash payment). Lavender/forest fruits, vegan chocolate…

Blue bench seat and colourful posters in a pizzeria

Pizzeria menu on a golden table with cutlery

Open front of a bar with tables and green plants

Plates of pasta and tomato salad on a laid table

Restaurant terrace beneath an arcaded facade

What we thought of Split

Discovering Split over a weekend was a lovely surprise! We didn’t think we’d go back to Croatia so soon after our week in Istria that summer. Split lends itself well to a long weekend but is also a good idea for a city to include in a longer trip in Dalmatia. At the start of October, the climate was quite simply perfect with a pure blue sky and around 25 degrees. Ideal for wandering and sightseeing without suffering from the strong summer heat. As for the crowds, here again going out of season is a stroke of luck.
So, if you’re looking for an idea for a seaside destination out of season, to enjoy pleasant temperatures, think of Split! If you have more time, think of the islands of Brac, Hvar or Vis, opposite Split.

Couple posing at the water's edge in front of the old town

Thank you for your comment! Marie & Romain

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