The Bardenas Reales desert

On a trip to Zaragoza in November, we took advantage of a free day to go an hour’s drive from the city, into the Bardenas Reales desert. I (Marie) had wanted to go there for a long time: this desert was definitely on my list of places to see in Europe!

Without thinking about it much more, we booked a rental car the day before our getaway. You should know that there is no public transport to reach the Bardenas Reales desert, from Zaragoza at least. Access is possible by car or via an organised excursion. We chose the company Enterprise, located in the Zaragoza-Delicias station, which offered the most attractive rates. We paid 80€ for the day’s rental for an SUV, all insurance included (plus 20€ of petrol).

What to see in the Bardenas Reales desert

Before going into the details of our itinerary, a few words about the Bardenas Reales desert. It’s a Nature Park recognised as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, located south of the Pyrenees, in Navarre, covering more than 42,000 hectares. There are several types of landscape but the best known of them is still La Blanca, the lowest part of the desert.

We started our visit of the desert at the Information Centre, near Arguedas. It’s the simplest way when you’re discovering the desert for the first time and don’t know where to start. At reception, we were advised on an ideal itinerary to do in an afternoon. They will also give you a detailed map to find your way. You don’t need to be good with directions, nothing could be simpler! A single one-way track loops around the main places to see in this part of the desert. It’s impossible to get lost. It is strictly forbidden to stray from the road because the rest of the nature park is actually a military zone (you will in fact drive past the base before starting the loop).

Arriving in the park, we were greeted by a shepherd and his flock of sheep. Just the thing to get you in the mood! In this part of the desert, the earth is whitish and the vegetation low. No buildings or houses on the horizon: you really are in the heart of a desert. All you have to do then is follow the track and… enjoy the lunar landscapes and the silence.

Castildetierra

The emblem of the Bardenas Reales desert is without a doubt this geological formation called Castildetierra. This rocky curiosity is at the end of the La Blanca loop, on the way back. This is where most visitors take their souvenir photos (and we didn’t escape the rule!). A two kilometre walk is also possible in the ravine (barranco) that surrounds it.

As for visitor numbers, there weren’t a huge number of people in the nature park at that time of year. Autumn was for us the ideal time to go! Most tourists visit the desert in summer, during high season (and the great heat). In November, we had good weather all day with blue sky and sunny spells. Do bring something warm to cover up with though because the temperatures are lower than in the city.

What we thought of the Bardenas Reales desert

After years with this Spanish desert on our minds, we finally saw it with our own eyes and we weren’t disappointed! You don’t come across this kind of unusual landscape everywhere, so for us it’s a must-see in Spain. At least once in your life!
Take advantage, for example, of a getaway to Zaragoza or a road trip in the north of the country (Aragon, Navarre…) to spend a short day in this desert.

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