Spain

Seville in four days

What could be better than a trip to Spain to escape the grey Paris November? To celebrate our nine years together, we chose Seville as our destination for the All Saints’ long weekend.

9 November 2019

What could be better than a trip to Spain to escape the grey Paris November? To celebrate our nine years together, we chose Seville as our destination for the All Saints’ long weekend. The temperatures there are still very mild and we had never been to Andalusia before!

Getting to Seville from Paris

We flew off to Seville with Vueling, which had good prices for the All Saints’ weekend: 145€ per person return (from the evening of 31 October to the early afternoon of 5 November).
Once at the airport, you have the choice between the EA bus that goes into the town centre, a taxi or a private hire car. We chose the last option, booking our ride on the Cabify app: the 25-minute journey to our accommodation only cost us 20€ for two!

What to see in Seville

Real Alcazar

The Real Alcazar is one of the visits you cannot skip if you come to Seville. So we had booked our tickets online a week before our departure on the official site. The low price of the student entry (17-25 years old) really surprised us: 4€ per person for such a touristy place was unimaginable. Adult entry costs 12,5€, which is not exorbitant. By booking online, you choose the day and the time of your visit, which lets you avoid the queue!

The Real Alcazar is an immense palace that includes many gardens and inner courtyards: we spent the whole afternoon there! So you need to allow half a day for this superb place. We had not booked an audio guide so we wandered at our own pace through the palace and its gardens.
The palace includes many impressive rooms decorated with ceramics and gilding that recall the oriental influence.

Wall of blue and ochre zellige tiles beneath a carved frieze

Room with azulejos and a black and white chequerboard floor

Oval dome with gilded coffers seen from below

Wrought iron gate open onto the greenery of the garden

Gilded dome and chiselled stucco above the arches of the hall

The Real Alcazar is an oasis in the middle of the city thanks to its immense gardens surrounded by walls. Get lost in the park and you will not meet anyone, because the crowd gathers around the palace. We really felt like we were somewhere else in these gardens (the palm tree effect no doubt).

Ornate railing opening onto a patio with a fountain and arcades

Woman in a red dress on a path lined with palm trees

Palm trees and clipped hedges along a long ochre wall

Narrow pool at the centre of the patio with its chiselled arcades

Pool and old gallery under a sky of heavy clouds

White arcaded pavilion and green ceramic bench

Terraced gardens seen from above, palm trees and clipped box

Peacock on a dirt path in front of an ivy-covered wall

Long pool lined with palm trees in front of an ochre building

Pavilion with round tiles in the middle of geometric flower beds

Couple sitting on a ceramic bench near a fountain

Path lined with azulejo benches running along the facade of the palace

Plaza de España

We could not go to Seville without visiting the very famous Plaza de España, considered one of the most beautiful squares in the world! And yet we really thought we would not see it because it had been requisitioned for the weekend for the MTV EMAs…

So we went twice: at nightfall, when the square starts to light up, and the following morning. That lets you admire the place in different lights. At the end of the day, there are fewer and fewer people, which is more pleasant for a stroll.

Woman in an ochre dress sitting on an azulejo bench

Ceramic balustrade and lit street lamp at dusk

Columned gallery and earthenware benches at sunset

The square is genuinely impressive for its size and its typical architecture. So we spent a good hour there discovering its many bridges and wandering under its arcades. You can even go up to the first floor for an overall view!

Ceramic bridge and street lamps lit as night falls

Curved wing of the palace reflected in the canal

Large earthenware vase in the foreground of the canal

Central body of the palace framed by two tall street lamps

Couple embracing on the earthenware balustrade above the canal

Palace lit up and golden reflections on the canal, midnight blue sky

The midday light brings out the ochre colour of the stones and creates a lovely contrast. The ceramics on all the balustrades really make the charm of the square! You understand why it is so well known… So for us it is a must if you come to Seville!

North tower of the palace seen from a brick ramp

Curved gallery and vast esplanade seen from the balcony

Man leaning on the balustrade facing the facade of the palace

Canal, rowing boats and south tower under a bright blue sky

Parque Maria Luisa

Maria Luisa park is about fifteen minutes’ walk from the town centre. The way there is pleasant because it is very leafy and it takes you past the big University of Seville at the same time. This park is immense and you can spend a whole afternoon there strolling and discovering the many groves and gardens it holds.

A few of our unmissables: the Fuente de los Leones, el Monte Gurugu and its pretty waterfall, the Museo de Artes y Costumbres facing the Plaza America and the archaeological museum of the city of Seville…

Dirt path lined with hydrangeas beneath the large trees

Artificial waterfall tumbling down a rock in the middle of the vegetation

Turquoise pool and water jets between palm trees and pines

Brick and ceramic facade of the museum under a blue sky

Mudéjar pavilion reflected in a pond covered with water lilies

Octagonal fountain with black and white patterns against the light

Cathedral

We could not walk past the cathedral every day without visiting it! Student entry costs only 4€ and gives access to the inside of the cathedral and to the central patio. It is better to book in advance on the site to avoid queuing, but we went an hour before it closed on the Monday (11am-3.30pm) and there was nobody there!

If the outside of the cathedral is imposing, the inside is just as impressive for the richness of the decoration. The visit takes about an hour if you do not have an audio guide, because the cathedral holds an inner garden that looks onto the Giralda and has several side rooms such as a museum.

Great Baroque organ between the pillars of the nave

Lace-like facade glimpsed above the orange trees

Side of the cathedral and esplanade crossed by passers-by

Stone buttresses and flying buttresses under a blue sky

Chevet of the cathedral and horse-drawn carriage on the square

The Giralda rising above the orange trees of the patio

Fountain and palm tree in front of the cathedral, two women posing

The Giralda at the end of a busy street in the old centre

Palacio de las Dueñas

If you are looking for a fine example of Andalusian architecture to visit in Seville, you need to go to the Palacio de las Dueñas. Located in the Santa Catalina district, very close to the Metropol Parasol, this palace is a must for us. Entry for students under 25 costs 8€ (10€ for adults). From the outside, you do not expect there to be so much to see and visit: allow about two hours, including time to amble through the gardens.

We found the visit to this palace very complete because you can admire both the outside with its many gardens and above all the main patio, and the furnished interiors of the various rooms on the ground floor. There were few tourists in the late morning so we were able to enjoy the peace of the place!

Sandy path between the orange trees of the walled garden

White facade covered with bougainvillea and iron balconies

Octagonal green ceramic pool in the middle of the garden

Large jar painted with the name of the palace in front of a cypress

Walled garden with white walls, palm trees and flower beds

Patio with white arcades, palm trees and flower beds

Antique plates hung above a white iron console table

Chiselled stucco arch between a red drawing room and the patio

Paved path lined with box, fountain at the far end of the patio

Woman in a red dress under a porch flowering with bougainvillea

Metropol Parasol

A little to the north of the historic centre of the city, on the Plaza de la Encarnación, is a curiosity you cannot see anywhere else. Nicknamed “Las Setas”, it is the largest wooden sculpture in the world, some thirty metres high. The Metropol Parasol is astonishing for its modernity but we really liked the mix of styles with the typical architecture of the buildings that surround it! You can go up to the top for a few euros and have a drink on its terrace (apparently the prices are a bit high). We preferred to walk around on its wide platform and take a few shots: unusual!

Mushroom-shaped wooden structure against the sky

White staircase climbing beneath the pale wooden vaults

Wooden parasols on pillars above the square

Esplanade shaded by the wooden structure, passer-by against the light

Woman in a yellow dress on the square lit up at night

Opening in the wooden lattice onto the white facades

Acuario de Sevilla

We decided to go to the Seville Aquarium to take a break from cultural and historical visits. We were not disappointed! Adult entry costs 17€ on site and 15€ if you book in advance on their website. The visit takes between an hour and a half and two hours if you take your time.
Even though the visit is more suited to a young audience, the Aquarium has a few curiosities such as a jellyfish breeding laboratory, tanks about the life of corals or about shark egg laying, quite simply impressive!

Yellow jellyfish floating in front of a bluish wall

Breeding tanks lit in blue behind the scenes at the aquarium

Woman seen from behind in front of a window with a shark passing by

Colourful coral reef and yellow and blue surgeonfish

The Triana district

Triana is the first district of Seville we explored: it is on the other bank of the Guadalquivir, the river that runs through the city. The Triana district is more working class and less touristy than the town centre and holds many ceramic workshops that made Seville’s reputation.
You need to take the Triana bridge to admire the colourful façades and to reach Saint George’s Castle and the Carmel chapel. We strolled along the Calle Betis, which runs along the river, and the Calle Castilla where you can see fine examples of glazed tiles on the houses.

Ceramic bell tower and brick tower against a cloudy sky

Woman leaning on the railing of a bridge above the river

Doorway framed by flowered azulejos on a white facade

Woman sitting on a low wall facing the river and the houses

Ceramic sign of an earthenware workshop in Triana

Paseo del río Guadalquivir

A pedestrian embankment runs along the river and lets you see many points of interest in a very pleasant setting, with a view over the colourful Triana district. The walk goes notably past the famous Torre del Oro, and you can climb to its top. The path carries on to Maria Luisa park, at the foot of the Seville Aquarium, near which there are a few food trucks. Holiday mood guaranteed!

River quay and white bridge, walkers in the sun

Woman in a yellow dress in front of the golden tower and two palm trees

Paved bank facing the colourful houses on the far side

Food truck terrace with colourful chairs on the quay

Twelve-sided Torre del Oro surrounded by palm trees

Where we stayed in Seville

As usual, we chose accommodation on Airbnb, a private room in an old Andalusian house (Casa Flor de Azahar), close to the cathedral and the Guadalquivir river. We recommend staying in the town centre so you can cover Seville on foot and avoid taking transport! The house where we stayed has five rented rooms in total, we advise taking the ones with a private bathroom.

Our favourite places to eat in Seville

Cristina Bistro: a very good place opposite the Alcazar gardens offering tapas with generous portions and lovely charcuterie boards.
Burro Canaglia: our favourite spot during this stay, we went twice. The decoration is really incredible, and the Italian dishes are very good too. Special mention for the goat’s cheese and mushroom risotto!
El Pinton: a restaurant as beautiful as it is good (the decor is stunning!), with a wide choice of upgraded, almost gourmet tapas.
Petra: a good restaurant in the town centre for eating slightly revisited Spanish tapas.
Milk Away: an excellent place for a healthy morning meal with fresh smoothies, bowls, milkshakes… a delight!
Manu Jara: a good patisserie in the Triana district offering entremets and pastries.
Bolas : artisanal ice creams in the town centre (few flavours).

Wooden table and shelves of jars in a restaurant

Dining room with a chequerboard floor, flowering tree and roses

Round tables under the arcades and a potted olive tree

What we thought of Seville

We really liked this sunny autumn escape which let us flee the bad Paris weather! Seville is a very beautiful city where you feel the western and eastern, Christian and Muslim influences, visible in the architecture and the gardens. You cannot miss this Andalusian city, whose jewel is without question its Alcazar! However, we will not say it is the most beautiful city in Spain.
We recommend spending three days in Seville to discover as much of it as possible, but outside the summer season when temperatures quickly reach 40 degrees. The All Saints’ weekend is the ideal time to go in our view.

In love with Spain? Read our articles about this magnificent country!

Closing visual on the gardens and the facade of the Alcazar

4 comments

Thank you for your comment! Marie & Romain

Lucie18 January 2020

Nous avons adoré Séville ! Cette ville andalouse a beaucoup de charme, tant par son patrimoine, son quartier historique, ses palais, sa douceur de vivre:) c’était notre première fois en Andalousie !

Marie18 January 2020

Première fois pour nous également, et certainement pas la dernière ! On aurait bien envie de découvrir des villes comme Grenade ou Ronda, et les petits villages blancs… pour une prochaine fois en Espagne peut-être 🙂

Chausson David et Stéphanie1 October 2022

Une superbe ville prope des commerçants très aimables avec les touristes des monuments historiques des parcs entrenus et une ville qui vit le soir et no stress. Ce qui nous convient très bien. À refaire.

Marie8 October 2022

On avait adoré la ville aussi ! Très riche en patrimoine et en gastronomie. Merci pour votre commentaire 🙂