Spain

Three days in Zaragoza

Like every year, we go away for the long weekend of 11 November. Looking for a destination with milder temperatures, we set our hearts on Spain and Zaragoza.

14 November 2021

Like every year, we go away for the long weekend of 11 November. Looking for a destination with milder temperatures, we set our hearts on Spain and Zaragoza. We booked the plane tickets with the airline Vueling which now offers direct flights between Paris Orly and Zaragoza. The return trip cost us 100€ per person, taking the cabin baggage option.

When you arrive at the airport, you can take a taxi at the exit. The journey costs between 20 and 25€ to get to the city centre. It is the most practical and above all the fastest way.

What to see in Zaragoza

The cathedrals of Zaragoza

We began our discovery of Zaragoza with a visit to the two main monuments that made the city famous: the cathedrals of Zaragoza. There is a pass at only 8€ which combines the visits to the Cathedral of the Saviour of Zaragoza, the Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Pilar of Zaragoza, the viewing tower of the Basilica, the Rosario de Cristal museum and the Tapestry museum. You should set aside about half a day for these visits.

Bell tower of La Seo and fountain in front of a glass pyramid

Mirror pool in front of the domes of the Basilica of El Pilar

Chequered paving at the foot of the bell tower of La Seo

Mudéjar wall of brick and polychrome ceramics

Towers of the Basilica of El Pilar seen from below

Blue glass processional float lit up in the nave

Main portal of the basilica beneath its stone towers

Colourful processional floats beneath the Gothic vaults

We have to admit that the Cathedral of the Saviour is one of the most beautiful monuments we have seen! The inside is breathtakingly rich, each chapel having its own singular architecture. An absolute must-see! Also do not miss the mudejar wall, which recalls the mix of styles of the cathedral. The other highlight of the visit remains the climb up the tower of the basilica del Pilar: the view over the roofs is stunning.

Glazed tile domes and the Ebro seen from the bell tower

Panorama of the city rooftops and the river from the tower

Puente de Piedra

One of the emblems of Zaragoza is its Stone Bridge which spans the Ebro. It is from this bridge and from the bank (Balcón De San Lázaro) that you can admire the Basilica del Pilar. The view is all the more magnificent at sunset and at night when the monuments are lit up. Plenty to take lovely photos, especially with the colours of the autumn leaves!

Stone Bridge and its arches reflected at dusk

Basilica framed by an arch of the Stone Bridge

Woman in a red jacket beside the Ebro in autumn

Illuminated basilica reflected in the river at night

Maple leaf in front of the bridge and the basilica at dusk

Basilica overlooking the Ebro seen from the bridge

Man leaning on the bridge parapet in front of the basilica

Stone arch against the light above the water

Casco Antiguo

The historic centre of Zaragoza is the district where the great majority of the monuments to see in the city are concentrated. It is not huge, so plan a day and a half. Here is a (non-exhaustive) list of the must-sees in our opinion:

Mercado Central de Zaragoza: famous covered market like in all Spanish cities where you can do your shopping or eat at a table
Plaza de San Felipe, where the Pablo Gargallo Museum (sculptures) is located
El Tubo: a typical, lively district of Zaragoza where all the tapas bars are concentrated. To do in the evening!
Museo del Teatro de Caesaraugusta: open-air ruins of a former Roman theatre
Pasaje del Ciclón: covered passage with restaurants and shops
Calle de Alfonso I: the city’s main artery, to see by day and by night
La Lonja: an exhibition hall today, with incredible architecture (photos forbidden)

Street lamps and garlands above a yellow facade

Metal hall of the covered market and its colourful stalls

Bronze statue of Augustus in front of the Roman walls

Shopping street lit by a canopy of garlands

Empty square in the early morning at the foot of a bell tower

Tiers of the Roman theatre protected by a glass roof

Equestrian statue in front of pink and ochre facades

Garlands strung above a street towards the domes of El Pilar

Palacio de la Aljafería

You cannot leave Zaragoza without having visited the Aljafería Palace, which today houses the Parliament of Aragon. The palace is set apart in the west of the city: allow 25 minutes’ walk from the historic centre. To visit it, you absolutely have to book a visiting slot online. Entry costs only 5€ for adults.
Built in the 11th century as a pleasure palace for the Muslim kings, the Aljafería Palace became over the centuries a residence for the kings of Aragon. It is also one of the most representative monuments of the mudéjar style in Spain and the symbol of Aragonese architecture. Its fortified wall is really impressive: you do not expect to find that in the city centre!

Crenellated walls of the Aljafería above the hedges

Towers of the Aljafería bordered by lawn and moat

Row of round towers of the Aljafería palace

Flag of Aragon flying on the keep of the palace

Woman on the walkway leading to the palace gate

Man in a dark jacket in front of the golden ramparts

Woman leaning on a low wall facing the fortified palace

The Palace tour lasts about 2 hours and lets you discover both the tree-lined inner courtyard and the different rooms. The patio is remarkable with its porticoes and its arcades: it reminded us a lot of the Real Alcazar in Seville! The interiors are magnificent too, in particular the painted ceilings which are worth a look.

Patio planted with orange trees and palms at the heart of the palace

Gilded coffered ceiling of a room with pink walls

Columned portico opening onto the sunlit patio

Blue and gold dome with star patterns in close-up

Carved wooden gallery overlooking the arcades of the patio

From the Aljafería Palace to the city centre

We took advantage of being in the west of the city to discover other districts and unmissable monuments such as:

Plaza de Toros
IAACC Pablo Serrano (modern art museum with unusual architecture)
Basílica Menor Parroquia de Santa Engracia
Plaza de los Sitios de Zaragoza

Contemporary building with blue and black facets

Baroque church in front of a bed of red flowers

Carved monument in the middle of a flowering garden

Goya Museum

We learned that the famous Spanish painter Francisco Goya comes from the province of Aragon and from Zaragoza, so a museum is dedicated to him in the historic centre of the city. The museum exhibits paintings and drawings by Goya but also works by his contemporaries of the Enlightenment. Until January 2022, a temporary exhibition about Picasso is held on the ground floor of the museum. We highly recommend the museum if you want to (re)discover Goya!

District of the 2008 World Expo

In the north-west of the city, on the banks of the Ebro, is the district of the 2008 World Expo. Allow between 30 and 40 minutes’ walk from the centre of Zaragoza. This visit is not essential but it lets you discover another face of the city with more modern buildings. Among them, the Congress Centre and the impressive sculpture by Jaume Plensa, Alma del Ebro.

White openwork sculpture and passer-by in a red coat

Banks of the Ebro with trees golden in autumn

Openwork silhouette standing in front of the Expo pavilions

Our accommodation in Zaragoza

As usual, we booked a place via Airbnb (280€ for the 3 nights)! Our entire flat was ideally located in the historic centre of Zaragoza, a few steps from the cathedral square, close to everything. And on top of that, the owners were accommodating and lovely. We highly recommend it!

Our favourite places to eat in Zaragoza

Cibus en tu Mesa: a very good “French style” bakery and patisserie (prices a bit high for the pastries but reasonable for the desserts – 3/4€).
La Flor de Lis: excellent bistronomic restaurant which offers Aragonese specialities revisited and modernised (58€ for two, 4 dishes to share and 1 dessert)
Montal Alimentación: good restaurant located inside a large grocery store (40€ for two for croquettes, ham and cheese boards)
Meli del Tubo: chic, modern tapas bar in the El Tubo district (44€ for two)
Maite: excellent fine dining restaurant listed in the Michelin guide (96€ for two for 2 tasting menus)

Burgundy banquette and pink walls of a restaurant dining room

What we thought of Zaragoza

We were won over by Zaragoza! The city lends itself well to a weekend of discovery, to be combined with exploring the surroundings, in particular the Bardenas Reales desert. Two days can be enough to visit the city: a third is necessary if you want to discover all the museums.
We highly recommend this beautiful Spanish city, easily reachable by plane or by train from the south of France! It is perfect for a getaway between culture and gastronomy.

In love with Spain? Read our articles about this magnificent country!

Woman in a red coat looking at the bridge in the evening

Thank you for your comment! Marie & Romain

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