Spain

Four days in Ibiza

To end the summer in style, my friend Margot and I were looking for a lovely destination in Europe where we could find good weather and enough to keep us busy for a few days.

2 September 2019

To end the summer in style, my friend Margot and I were looking for a lovely destination in Europe where we could find good weather and enough to keep us busy for a few days. So we chose to drop our bags in Ibiza for five days to discover this island that is so famous but so controversial at the same time… In the collective imagination, you only go to Ibiza to party at Pacha to the sound of David Guetta with a crowd going wild. But if you take a slightly closer interest in the island, you realise that Ibiza has a lot more to offer…

Getting to Ibiza from Paris

So we went from 30 August to 3 September, the perfect time to avoid the August crowds and still enjoy the heat. We found very cheap tickets with Vueling : 58€ return only! Ibiza airport is about ten kilometres from the town of Eivissa, the island’s capital. On arrival, we took the L10 line (3.60€ a ticket) to get to our accommodation and the town centre. The journey takes about 20 minutes.

What to see in Ibiza

Map of Ibiza locating the citadel, the beaches and the Torre de ses Portes

Eivissa

The citadel (Dalt Vila)

Golden stone bastion of Dalt Vila and its flower lined staircase

Rampart walk overlooking the white rooftops

Bastion terrace open onto the sea and the town

Bright red facade backing onto the ramparts above the harbour

Paved ramp running along a white chapel facing the sea

Turquoise cove at the foot of the cliffs of the old town

Old cannon trained on the white rooftops below

Wide rampart ramp climbing towards the top of the citadel

Lane sloping up to the cathedral of Dalt Vila

We visited the citadel of Eivissa one morning, from 9.30am, to avoid the influx of tourists. We can assure you we were almost alone all morning, both on the ramparts and in the old town.
We began the climb up to the citadel in front of the Plaza Reina Sofia, to reach the Baluard de Sant Jaume and then the Sant Bernat one. After passing the castle, we went down towards the Santa Maria de les Neus cathedral. You can then get lost in the white lanes, before reaching the Plaça d’Espanya. One of the finest viewpoints is without doubt the Baluard de Santa Lucia, where you get a panoramic view over the port, the sea and the citadel all at once.
Most of the restaurants and shops are on the Plaça de la Vila and the Carrer de la Santa Creu (where we had lunch). You can leave the citadel through the Portal de ses Taules, the old town’s main gate, or carry on towards the Plaça del Sol and the Baluard de Sant Pere to get another view over the town of Eivissa.

Palm tree and bougainvillea in front of a white facade with yellow shutters

Massive bell tower of the cathedral seen from the ramparts

Ochre balcony laden with flower pots seen from below

Whitewashed staircase under a pink bougainvillea

Yellow building with iron balconies and a shaded terrace

Tangle of tiled roofs and terraces above the harbour

Flight of stone steps between two white walls

Cafe terrace set up in a lane of the old town

We loved walking on the ramparts as well as in the narrow, colourful lanes of the old town. The citadel has a lot of charm and a certain calm comes off it.

The port

After a good part of the day spent in the citadel, we headed for the port of Eivissa. It welcomes many yachts and big ships, but that takes nothing away from the charm of its embankment. The restaurants and bars were closed in the afternoon, so once again we were the only ones wandering around the port!
Over by the ferry terminal, you’ll get a magnificent view of the citadel: not to be missed.
Towards the jetty, you’ll find charming white houses with blue shutters, which adds authenticity to a place known for partying.

Stone staircase climbing between whitewashed houses

White terrace under the palm trees of the seafront

White house with blue shutters overlooking the seafront

Wooden promenade of the harbour lined with palm trees

White lighthouse with a red lantern guarding the harbour entrance

Colourful seafront topped by the cathedral

The town centre

The centre of Eivissa is also very pleasant, sitting between the citadel and the port. Take a walk, among other places, along the passeig de Vara de Rey, a tree lined pedestrian avenue bordered by shops and restaurants. The architecture of the buildings there is typical and very colourful.

Building with balconies lining a tree planted avenue

Bronze monument in the middle of a tree lined promenade

Row of balconies and yellow facades in the town centre

We also wandered through the lanes around the Plaça de sa Font and the Old Market, at the foot of the citadel. The streets are each more beautiful and charming than the last. Here you’ll find plenty of fairly upmarket clothing and accessory shops, “_Made In Ibiz_a” souvenir shops and of course restaurants.

Cobbled pedestrian street decked with bougainvillea

Cascade of pink bougainvillea in front of the city walls

Narrow lane opening onto the bell tower of the cathedral

Shaded terraces and bicycles along a shopping street

White bell tower of a church wedged between buildings

Platja de ses Figueretes (Playa de Figueretas)

Sandy beach lined with buildings and clear water

Palm lined promenade running along the sand of Figueretes

Sand raked in the early morning in front of a calm sea

Backlit palm trees on the promenade at sunset

Figueretas beach was about ten minutes from our accommodation. So we went there almost every day! We were surprised to see it wasn’t packed at all… and even less so at 9am when we had the beach all to ourselves! The beach is very clean, with fine sand, and the water is so clear: perfect for swimming. It’s lined by a pleasant embankment with lots of restaurants and bars to finish off a good day at the beach.

Ses Salines

The morning we had decided to go and see the salt pans, the sky was very stormy and a few drops were falling. But that didn’t stop us going! On the contrary, we didn’t regret it at all because we were alone all morning, in a place normally packed in summer…

Getting to Ses Salines

As we hadn’t rented a car for this trip, we had to find places to visit that were reachable by bus from Eivissa. And that’s the case for the Ses Salines Natural Park! It’s just behind Ibiza airport, 20 minutes by bus from the town (ticket price on board: 3€ one way). So we took the L11 from the Estación de Autobuses CETIS (terminus), a few minutes’ walk from our accommodation. The bus dropped us at the “Ses Salines, Playa” stop, a perfect starting point for a walk by the sea.

Platja de Ses Salines

Catamarans pulled up on the sand under a heavy sky

Turquoise bay lined with pines and pale sand

Long beach backed by a wooded hill under a stormy sky

Sandy track running between dunes and rocks

Ochre rocks plunging into a pewter coloured sea

Translucent turquoise water lapping jagged rocks

Woman in a floral dress sitting facing the sailing boats at anchor

Silhouette in a red dress on a beach of sand and rock

Ses Salines beach was literally deserted when we got there around 10.30am. The “bad weather” must have scared the tourists off, to our great delight. With the grey sky, the water came out even clearer and more turquoise. So we walked along the beach, on the sand, then on the rocks of a magnificent reddish colour. There isn’t really a defined path, but we followed the seafront walking on the cliff, to reach the Ses Portes Tower.

Torre de Ses Portes

Sandy path crossing the scrubland towards the hills

Watchtower set at the end of a bare heath

Round stone watchtower standing on the cape

Woman in a red dress walking a sandy path lined with pines

There came a point where we couldn’t stay on the rocks. So we headed for the pine wood to get to the end of the Ses Salines point. At the end of the path stands the Ses Portes Tower, an old defensive tower against the pirate threat. We felt alone in the world in this almost desert landscape, where the waves beat against the rocks. From there, you can also make out the town of Eivissa.

Salt marshes

Pans of the salt flats spread out at the foot of a wooded hill

Stone dyke separating two pans reflecting the sky

Brown waters of the salt flats edged with shrubs

Flat expanse of the salt flats facing the white houses

We didn’t find a detailed map on the internet for visiting the park’s salt pans. There’s no path for pedestrians and the only road entrances are off limits. So we had to walk along the only road, which isn’t very pleasant or safe… You probably need a car to reach the village of Sant Francesc de s’Estany, where there should be a starting point for a walk.

We were still able to catch sight of the basins and their colours changing in the sun. It reminded us of the salt pans of Formentera!

Our accommodation in Ibiza

Finding affordable accommodation in Ibiza was no small matter! Prices are very high, even at the end of summer, especially in the capital Eivissa. So we set our hearts on a private room found on Airbnb for 410€ for the 4 nights. The apartment is ideally located, about ten minutes from Figueretes beach and the centre of Eivissa.

Our favourite places to eat in Ibiza

Nude café: a good place in the “healthy” spirit with a very complete menu. The portions are quite big for low prices (from 5€), don’t let your eyes be bigger than your stomach!
Popa Ibiza: a terrace in the heart of the citadel, perfect for a cool homemade drink (iced tea, lemonade…) and tapas that aren’t too expensive.
S’escalinata: a fairly original bar, set up in the citadel on some steps. You sit comfortably in big beanbags, with a lovely view!
Sky Bar by MiM Ibiza Es Vivé: the favourite of this stay in Ibiza! A sublime rooftop, near Figueretes beach, with very reasonable prices for such a luxurious place.
TiraPalla: the second rooftop of our stay, with a stunning view of the citadel. Also not to be missed!
El Paladar Jamonería & Delicatessen Ibiza: a fine grocery offering local products, essentially Iberian ham and Ibizan cheeses. You can also buy freshly made sandwiches there!
La Casita Ibicenca: a lovely souvenir shop in the old town, below the citadel. Ceramics, gourmet products (salt, chocolate, coffee) and beauty products.

Colourful cushions set on the steps in front of a white restaurant

Terrace bench seat in the evening in front of the lit ramparts

White baroque armchair on a terrace open onto the sea

What we thought of Ibiza

This trip to Ibiza was a very big surprise! We didn’t think we’d find such an authentic island, full of charm and above all empty of its usual holidaymakers… We’ll definitely be going back to explore the island more deeply, with its coves, its typical villages and its dream beaches.
We advise you to go to Ibiza at the end of the summer season, when the sun is still beating down but the island has emptied of its partying tourists. It’s the best way to fully enjoy this jewel of the Balearics!

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White lane overflowing with red bougainvillea

Thank you for your comment! Marie & Romain

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