The Hautes-Alpes and the Buëch: what to see, what to do

This summer, we’re taking you off to discover a little-known area, 100% turned towards nature. Off to the Hautes-Alpes department, and more precisely to the Sources du Buëch country! It’s a region with few visitors, one that most tourists don’t spontaneously think of for their summer holidays. And yet it’s worth the detour, especially if you like peaceful, wild corners.

But where exactly is the Sources du Buëch country? Set in the south-west of the Hautes-Alpes department and west of Gap, this small area lies halfway between Provence and the Alps, right in the heart of the Baronnies provençales regional nature park and at the gateway to the Dévoluy massif. A clever mix of farming valleys, mountain ranges, gorges and lavender fields. It stretches from the Agnielles gorges to the dizzying cliffs of Céüse (a climbers’ delight), and takes in 19 villages.

The Buëch region is rather well served by train, in particular by the TER lines from Grenoble and Marseille, which stop at the Veynes and Aspres-sur-Buëch stations. From Paris, we took the TGV to Grenoble then the TER to Aspres-sur-Buëch: allow 5 hrs 10 of travel with the connection. Plan as far ahead as you can to get the best fares!

In this article we’re giving you everything we were able to see and do over two weeks in summer. Enjoy the read!

See our stay in pictures on our Instagram account!

What to see in the Buëch area in the Hautes-Alpes

The villages to visit

Veynes

It’s one of the biggest market towns in the region! Set at the gateway to the Baronnies provençales regional nature park, on the right bank of the Petit Buëch river, Veynes is definitely a more Provençal village than an Alpine one. Colourful houses, narrow lanes, fountains… the charm of the south. We followed the history trail that takes you round Veynes’ heritage, in particular the Château de la Villette (today the town hall) and the Saint-Sauveur church.

⏲_ Big local produce market every Thursday morning_

Ecomusée du cheminot veynois

Veynes is known in the Hautes-Alpes for being a major railway town! Set at the crossroads of the Marseille, Grenoble and Avignon lines, the town is a real railway hub. The écomusée du cheminot veynois retraces the story of the train’s arrival in Veynes in 1850, as well as the life and the know-how of the railway workers, through models, reconstructions and a fine collection of objects. We were lucky enough to go round the museum on a guided tour with David, who works in heritage conservation and shared all his knowledge of the railway world in Veynes with us. An interesting museum to discover, especially with the family!

💰 4€ for adults and 2€ for children
⏲_ Opening hours: Wednesday to Saturday from 2pm to 6pm (during the school holidays and from 1 June to 30 September)_

Aspres-sur-Buëch

This little village of colourful houses is nicknamed the “snail town” because its lanes coil around a mound. At the top there’s a clock tower: this is where you get a very fine viewpoint over the surroundings. Go at golden hour and sunset for beautiful colours. A few kilometres from the centre is the Chevalet aerodrome, where you can do all sorts of flying activities, in particular microlighting and gliding. Good to know: you can enjoy a lovely free swimming pool open all summer, with a great view of the mountains. In short, Aspres is a pretty stop to make!

⏲_ Small market every Saturday morning (do stop at the Breton & fils cured meats/cheeses stall, it’s delicious)_

Le Saix

You couldn’t make the name up (it’s pronounced “le sexe”)! A few minutes by car from Veynes, this stone village has a rich history. We took a guided tour of Le Saix with Bruno Faure, a local who knows the history of the place and every anecdote inside out, during the La Grande Evasion event. We learned, for example, that the village’s origins go back more than 2500 years BC, as the archaeological finds made in the area show. And on the heights above the village the remains of the 12th-century medieval castle are still standing. During the Second World War, the inhabitants even supplied resistance fighters who were fleeing the STO (Service du Travail Obligatoire) and hiding in the maquis (a dark chapter of history told in more detail on the town hall website).

Abbaye de Clausonne

But what also makes Le Saix famous is without any doubt the remains of the abbey of Clausonne, a 12th-century Chalaisian abbey tucked into the Maraize valley. Listed as a Monument Historique, the Abbey is today looked after and showcased by the enthusiasts of the Association des Amis de Clausonne. It can be reached in an hour’s walk from the village of Le Saix, a chance to take a lovely stroll in the mountains and discover some fine heritage. So do think about dropping into this little village during your stay!

Serres

Set outside the Sources du Buëch area, in the Baronnies provençales regional nature park, further south in the Hautes-Alpes department on the way to Sisteron, the village of Serres is not to be missed! It carries the “Petite cité de caractère” label and you quickly understand why. Pressed against the Pignolette rock, this former medieval village has a lot of charm. The Petit Buëch flows below and you can even swim in it. As well as the narrow cobbled lanes where it’s good to wander, here are a few points of interest and unsuspected treasures in Serres:

• Romanesque parish church of Saint-Arey, look carefully and you’ll see an engraving by Rembrandt!
• Residence of Gaspard de Perrinet (today the town hall)
• Maison Lesdiguières in Renaissance style, with its façade of polychrome gypsum work

The castle not to be missed

Château de Montmaur

If you like fine stonework and surprising stories, you won’t be disappointed by a visit to the château de Montmaur. Listed as a Monument Historique, the castle stands in the village of the same name, at the foot of the Dévoluy mountains. We warmly recommend taking the guided tour led by Stéphane, a fine connoisseur of the castle’s history and its secrets. The visit starts with the landscaped park dating from the 19th century and carries on inside towards, among others, the banqueting hall, the ballroom and the wooden roof frame in the attic.

The castle’s history is a rich one, going back to the start of the building’s construction in the 14th century. What stayed with us is a more recent, striking episode linked to the Second World War. In 1942, the château de Montmaur served as a rest centre for prisoners of war and as a place of resistance, under the command of Antoine Mauduit (an officer of the Legion) who rented it for that purpose.

Don’t miss the castle’s big cultural programme during the summer either: shows, concerts, exhibitions… the place is very much alive!

💰 Free entry for the self-guided visit; 5€ for adults for the guided tour
⏲_ Opening hours: every Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 2pm to 6pm (from 02/07 to 31/08)_

The walk not to be missed

Sentier des falaises in Agnielles

If there’s one walk to do in the region, it’s this one! Recently waymarked, the sentier des falaises (cliff path) offers panoramic views over the Agnielles gorges, classified as a Natura 2000 area. The path, made of passages cut into the mountainside and of metal staircases, threads its way along the cliff to reach two viewpoints with a magnificent panorama. A little surprise: you even go through a cave where bats roost! Allow 1 hr of walking for a kilometre there and back, with 100 metres of climb. It’s a short, easy hike, accessible to everyone, unless you suffer too much from vertigo. We were lucky enough to be guided by Pascal Lefèvre, President of the Sources du Buëch tourist office and a mountain leader, who gave us plenty of explanations about this exceptional natural site. A must-do walk!

The water spots where you can swim

Marmites du Diable

This is our favourite discovery from this stay in the Sources du Buëch country! Nature did things well near the village of La Faurie. The Durbonas torrent has carved a real canyon into the limestone, forming a cascade of basins: genuine little pools of crystal-clear water called the Marmites du Diable (the Devil’s cauldrons). The boldest can discover this unusual landscape through a technical hike and some canyoning, with special wetsuits. As for us, we made do with bathing in the (very) fresh water of these “cauldrons”, where we were on our own in the middle of summer! It’s a fairly little-known spot whose name shouldn’t be spread around too fast…

Petit and Grand Buëch

The two tributaries that gave the area its name! This braided torrential river (110 kilometres of watercourse) is classified as a Natura 2000 area for the richness of its wildlife and plant life. The water of the Buëch is very clear, with emerald and turquoise glints depending on the sunlight: it’s a real joy to swim in! To protect this little hidden paradise, we won’t reveal here the precise location of our favourite bathing spots. Follow the watercourse, you’ll easily find a pebble beach where you can spread out your towel away from prying eyes.

Plan d’eau des Iscles in Veynes

The Veynes leisure centre is the perfect place to swim and have a good time with the mountains as a backdrop! The whole area around the lake is laid out (with a supervised bathing zone) and lots of activities are on offer, such as inflatable games, laser game and even a treetop adventure course. A very lovely tree-lined site on the Buëch plain!

What to do in the Buëch area in the Hautes-Alpes

Fly in a weight-shift microlight

The Chevalet aerodrome at Aspres-sur-Buëch is renowned for its ideal flying conditions and its exceptional air currents in the Alps. We took the chance to try an activity we had never done before: the weight-shift microlight. We took off with Philippe Harignordoquy of Hary Fly, a seasoned pilot and instructor who offers discovery flights above the Buëch valley. Because of our fear of heights, we were a little apprehensive, but our flights went very well. We were able to take photos and videos from the sky, and even to take the controls of the machine!

Flying over the Buëch, the mountains and all the villages around Aspres is impressive. The views are magnificent and it gives you another perspective on the area. We warmly recommend booking a flight, you won’t regret it!

💰 88€ for the 20min flight over Aspres-sur-Buëch, Veynes and the montagne des Apôtres; 110€ for the 30min flight around the valley
⏲_ Flights often take place in the morning or at the end of the day, depending on conditions_

Make the most of the region’s cultural programme

The Sources du Buëch country is rich in events and festivities, above all during the summer season. In most cases, all these events and village fêtes are free! To be enjoyed without moderation.

• Concerts every Friday at 9pm at the Château de Montmaur, in the park: the programme is varied and the artists talented. See the calendar.
• Corso de Veynes in July: a parade of colourful floats and musical entertainment in the centre of Veynes.
• Fête votive of Aspres-sur-Buëch on the last weekend of July: funfair rides, DJ nights, sports tournaments. For the whole family!
• La Grande Evasion at the end of July and beginning of August: a week to discover the region differently through walks, guided tours and shows. All the information about this event.

📅 See the full calendar on the website of the Sources du Buëch tourist office

Watch the stars

As light pollution is low in this part of the Hautes-Alpes, you can make out the stars very clearly at night. Every Tuesday in July and August, the Copernic association of La Roche-des-Arnauds offers sky observation sessions with telescopes, from 9pm. A chance to learn more about astronomy from enthusiasts!

💰 Free for everyone

Sleep in a former forester’s house

A forester’s house, what’s that? A forester’s house used to be the tied accommodation of the forest wardens, often set on the edge of a forest. Today, some of these houses have been renovated to welcome nature lovers looking for peace and authenticity. This responsibly managed accommodation is rented out by the night at an unbeatable price: the ideal place to come with friends or family to recharge and enjoy the outdoor activities close by.

We were able to visit the maison forestière d’Agnielles, managed by the Sources du Buëch tourist office, set in the abandoned village of the same name, in the heart of the Durbon state forest. This 17th-century building has been entirely restored and turned into a gîte that runs on renewable energy. Comfortable and well laid out, it has 7 bedrooms that can sleep up to 15 people. An inexpensive accommodation option in a picturesque setting!

📅 Book your stay at the maison forestière d’Agnielles directly online (210€ a night for a house sleeping 15)

Our favourite spots in the Hautes-Alpes

Restaurants

• ❤️ La Sérafine in Veynes: our favourite gourmet restaurant in the region! Inventive cooking with an Asian touch in a very pleasant setting, set menus at 50€ or 70€.
• L’Auberge de la Tour in Saint-Pierre d’Argençon: two women serve cooking based on fresh, local produce, 100% homemade (right down to the ice creams). Cultural events and shows every Tuesday (pay what you feel is fair).
• L’Araignée gourmande in Laragne-Montéglin: a good gourmet restaurant with well-mastered French cooking. Set menus at 24€, 38€ or 54€.

Local producers

• ❤️ Ferme du Forest in Montbrand: the compulsory stop in the region to buy organic sourdough bread (baked in a wood-fired oven) or farm produce (flour, lentils, mustard…). Direct sale at the farm between 12pm and 6pm on Mondays and Thursdays.
• Ferme de Baumugnes in Saint-Julien-en-Beauchêne: the perfect place to buy cow’s milk cheeses (in particular the famous tomme de Baumugnes). Direct sale at the farm between 4pm and 7pm on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
• Mon Paysan Alpin in Veynes: a small grocery shop to buy all sorts of fresh, local products (fruit and vegetables, preserves, juices…).
• Tiffanie et ses bonbons in Veynes: a very good chocolate and sweet shop run by an enthusiast (chocolates, fruit jellies, marshmallows, sweets… organic and ethical).

What we thought of the Buëch area in the Hautes-Alpes

We had an excellent two-week stay, without being bored for a single second! The Buëch is an area that is paradoxically simple but rich, turned towards the mountains, but not only that: typical villages, swimming in the rivers, outdoor activities, night-time festivities… there’s something for every taste and every age. We also like the fact that the region is fairly accessible by train, with the TER from Grenoble in particular. One thing is certain: we’ll be back to explore the Hautes-Alpes and the neighbouring Drôme provençale. This little country with its Provençal climate deserves to be known… but not too much, so keep the secret a bit to yourself!
So, if you’re looking for a destination far from the crowds, authentic and turned towards nature, think of the Hautes-Alpes department and this Sources du Buëch country. An area that is still unspoilt, ideal for getting away and being out in the open air!

A trip made in collaboration with the Sources du Buëch Tourist Office. A big thank you to the whole team for their commitment and their kindness, in particular Nathalie, Lisa, Chani and Pascal.

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