France

A weekend in Tours and Amboise

As usual, we took advantage of the long 11 November weekend to make ourselves scarce and get out of Paris.

13 November 2022

As usual, we took advantage of the long 11 November weekend to make ourselves scarce and get out of Paris. We were looking for a destination close to Paris, reachable by train, with a good food offer (eating well matters) and a cultural one. And it’s Tours that we chose, because the city ticked all those boxes! We had already visited it several years ago in 2015: it was time to revive our memories.

Tours is reachable by TER from Paris-Austerlitz (2 hrs 10 of travel): we paid 54€ return per person (with the SNCF Avantages card), from Thursday evening to Sunday evening. A reasonable price for a rather popular long weekend that usually pushes prices up fast.

So we’re giving you our favourite places to eat and our ideas for must-see places to visit during a weekend in Tours and its surroundings. We took the chance to visit the town of Amboise, its royal castle and the Clos Lucé, reachable by TER in about twenty minutes. Other castles are also reachable by train: Azay-le-Rideau (28 minutes), Langeais (23 minutes), Blois (41 minutes)…

What to see in Tours

Vieux-Tours

In the Vieux-Tours district

A few recommendations of streets or squares we enjoyed discovering:

Place Plumereau, the must-see
Rue Colbert and its restaurants
Place Châteauneuf and the hôtel des Ducs de Touraine, in the shade of the olive trees
Rue Nationale and its shops
Maison canoniale, Jardin Saint Pierre Le Puellier

Packed cafe terraces on a square in the old town of Tours in autumn

Half-timbered facades of the old town of Tours seen from below

Small cobbled square lined with benches and clipped shrubs

Straight shopping street crossed by the tram tracks

Timber-framed house above a rattan terrace

Slate corbelling and carved brackets on the corner of an old house

Brick and stone gable framed by a vaulted porch

Sloping lane between a half-timbered house and a stone wall

Hôtel Goüin

In our view, one of the city’s most beautiful monuments! This 15th-century mansion, magnificently well restored, opens its doors free of charge for temporary exhibitions (opening hours: 2pm-6pm). At the moment, and until the beginning of January, it’s an exhibition about tapestry and the creations made by the women of La Martinerie.

Large colourful tapestry displayed beneath a wooden roof frame

Vaulted Renaissance gallery where a visitor is on the phone in the sun

Blue vases lined up above a round marine tapestry

Tour Charlemagne

One of the city’s emblems, from its 56 metres of height! You can climb it accompanied by a qualified guide from the city of Tours for 6€ (all the information here) or do an Escape Game in it.

Upward view of the eroded stones of the Charlemagne tower

Romanesque tower and blue dome at the end of a quiet little square

Square stone tower with a flock of birds flying over it

Saint-Martin basilica in Tours

A monument whose visit blew us away with the beauty of its architecture, outside as much as inside. The basilica houses the tomb of Saint Martin in its crypt: remember to go down, the place is really very beautiful.

Chevet and Byzantine dome of the Saint-Martin basilica

Nave of the basilica and its red carpet between the pews

Side facade in pale stone of the Saint-Martin basilica

Vaulted crypt with a mosaic floor, decorated with white flowers

Cathedral district

The area around the cathedral is much more peaceful than Vieux-Tours but no less picturesque. We started with the Jardin François Sicard, opposite which we were staying, which led us to the Musée des Beaux-Arts and its magnificent garden. Behind the fine entrance to the museum’s grounds stands a Cedar of Lebanon that is more than 200 years old. This garden is a place you really shouldn’t miss when you come to Tours! Coming out to the right, you come across the very beautiful Saint-Gatien cathedral and its cloître de la Psalette (closed when we came by). Further on, towards the Loire, is the old château de Tours, which dates from the 11th century: nothing to do here with the Renaissance-period Loire castles.

We then wandered in the quiet little streets behind the cathedral where the remains of the Gallo-Roman walls of Tours and half-timbered houses sit side by side. Few tourists venture here, we were on our own!

Classical palace and flower beds in front of the cathedral towers

Formal French garden with pink, white and yellow beds

Monumental portico dressed with exhibition posters and flags

Immense cedar in the garden, a tiny figure at its foot

Two Gothic towers of the Saint-Gatien cathedral against the blue sky

Long building with brick chimneys set on a lawn

Banks of the Loire

The Loire is never very far away when you’re strolling in Tours. During the summer, the banks come alive with guinguettes and boat trips are organised on the river: we’re noting the idea for next time! In autumn and winter, it’s true you don’t find that festive atmosphere, but it’s still pleasant to walk along the water, especially with the colours changing in the trees. A few spots we recommend:

Passerelle Saint-Symphorien, opposite the castle.
Parc de l’Ile Simon, which gives a lovely view over both banks of the Loire
Pont Wilson, at sunset

Footbridge suspended from taut cables above the Loire

Sandbanks of the Loire and village with a bell tower on the far bank

Path running along a green wall under a pink evening sky

Low Loire and stone bridge glimpsed between the trees

Orange setting sun above the tree-lined Loire

Birds settled on the sandbanks, bridge in the distance

Prieuré Saint-Cosme, Ronsard’s home

We didn’t know it before coming to Tours, but Pierre de Ronsard, the poet of Princes, lived here when he was prior of Saint-Cosme. So we decided to go and visit this place, about forty minutes’ walk from the city centre. We went in the late afternoon and we were literally all alone! Entry for adults costs 6€, allow a minimum of an hour for the visit to discover the gardens, the prior’s house, the ruins of the church and the canons’ refectory. So we learned a bit more about this major figure of Renaissance literature, in particular in the house where he lived and where he died (Ronsard is buried in the choir of the priory church). We really recommend this visit, which takes you out of the centre of Tours and lets you discover a major site of the region’s historical (and literary) heritage!

Stone building of the Saint-Cosme priory and its lawn

Old room furnished with a wooden table and a bust

Ruined Gothic arch standing alone against the sky

Ruins of the priory and garden planted with large pots

Low ruined walls and cypresses in the raking light

Large ruined arch gilded by the autumn sun

Botanical Garden

To make the road to the priory feel less long, we stopped at the Tours Botanical Garden: a very beautiful park with a menagerie where it’s good to stroll. It isn’t a must-see when you visit Tours, but if you have a bit of time like us, don’t hesitate to drop by!

Pond lined with bamboo and walkers on the garden path

Garden path beneath the large yellowing trees, greenhouse on the right

Flamingos at the edge of the pond in the botanical garden

Brick pavilion and animal enclosure on the lawn

What to see in Amboise

We took advantage of having three full days on the spot to go and spend a day in Amboise. The TER journey only takes 17 minutes and costs 9€ return from Tours. Amboise station is 15/20 minutes from the town centre: the walk is very pleasant because it takes you across the Loire and gives pretty views of the castle. We started our day with a little tour of Amboise’s shopping heart and then went to the Clos Lucé, home of the very famous Leonardo da Vinci. Everything is easily done on foot, handy when you don’t have a car.

Clos Lucé

The Clos Lucé sits above the town of Amboise, at the end of the rue Victor Hugo. We got there around 11am and there was already a queue at the ticket office. You can also book your tickets online (useful in summer or during the school holidays). Entry for adults costs 18€ and includes the visit to Leonardo da Vinci’s home, the park and the recently opened new galleries.

In the park, all you have to do is follow the path marked on the map you’re given at reception. The route lets you discover, among the groves, machines invented by Leonardo da Vinci and reproduced life size. A few explanatory panels let you learn more about the genius’s life and about certain great principles such as flying or crossing watercourses thanks to ingenious bridges. A park that children will love too!

Turreted manor of Clos Lucé and its red maple

Arched wooden bridge reflected in the pond of the park

Reconstruction of one of Vinci's flying machines on the lawn

Large printed canvas hung between the trees of the park

Pond reflecting the autumn trees and the sculptures of the park

Vinci's flying wing hung in the branches of a tree

Before heading back up towards the castle, don’t miss the new building that houses the galleries “Leonardo da Vinci, painter and architect” dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci’s inventions and to the new town of Romorantin that he had imagined as the new capital of France. An almost futuristic city that never saw the light of day but that you can see in the room dedicated to it thanks to 3D modelling.

From the outside, the château du Clos Lucé is really beautiful and well restored, surrounded by its little gardens that form a kind of jewel case. On the terrace of the house there’s a café and a souvenir shop. Inside, the rooms downstairs are devoted to Leonardo da Vinci’s inventions with an exhibition of machines of all kinds, while the upper floors show where the Italian lived and worked. No photos, to keep the surprise!

Brick and stone manor of Clos Lucé and its fountain

Vegetable garden and orange pumpkins in front of a gardener's house

Gothic chapel in brick and tuffeau stone topped with slate

Coming out of the castle, instead of going back down the rue Victor Hugo, go up the rue Léonard Perrault instead. At the end, a small viewpoint offers a pretty view over the rooftops of Amboise and the surrounding countryside. From there, you can go down the steps that lead back to the town centre. A lovely loop! We then followed on with a visit to the château d’Amboise, the winter opening hours are more restrictive (2pm-4.30pm in the afternoon), remember to check the castle’s website.

Royal castle of Amboise

Entry for adults costs 16.40€ (with a Histopad tablet included while the castle chapel is being restored, under scaffolding at the moment). But despite the fact that you can neither see nor get into the chapel, this part of the castle (Leonardo da Vinci’s burial place) is still interesting because you discover the “behind the scenes” of restoring a historic monument, with a presentation of the trades involved, the techniques used and so on.

Here again, we started with the gardens to make the most of the pretty afternoon light. The most impressive thing is still those box trees clipped into balls, which give the landscape a certain character and earn the park the title of “Jardin remarquable”. A chance to take some lovely photos!

White château of Amboise at the end of a lawn edged with box

Couple leaning against a tree, château and Loire in the background

Box clipped into balls and pruned trees on the terrace

Chequerboard bed of box on the ramparts of the château

Gravel path lined with yellow chrysanthemums, two walkers

Terrace of the château framed under branches, Loire on the horizon

Don’t miss the walk round the ramparts either, which offer magnificent views over the Loire and the half-timbered houses of the centre of Amboise. The visit to the castle’s interiors then starts in front, by the big lawn. We weren’t expecting to see so many people wandering through the rooms, which makes the visit a bit difficult at times. The castle offers plenty of guided tours, but you should know that they’re pretty full at the weekend! The castle comes in three parts that correspond to three different historical periods: the Gothic dwelling, the Renaissance apartments and the so-called “Louis-Philippe” apartments. Special mention for the magnificent council chamber, which was starting to be decorated for Christmas with a giant nativity scene.

Long facade of the royal château of Amboise and its round tower

Roofs of Amboise and the Loire seen from the wall walk

Half-timbered houses and slate roofs seen from above

Panorama over the Loire from the ramparts of the château of Amboise

Large round tower with a horseman's ramp overlooking the roofs

Château of Amboise overlooking the Loire in the evening light

Town centre

The historic heart of Amboise isn’t huge but it’s full of beautiful old houses and monuments such as the 15th-century Tour de l’Horloge, the Hôtel de Ville and the collegiate church of Saint-Denis. A town centre that’s worth the detour! Walking back to the station, we were treated to a magnificent sunset over the Loire, and if we hadn’t been pressed for time to catch our train, we’d have gone to the Ile d’Or, opposite the castle, to take a few shots.

Shopping street of Amboise decked with strings of bunting

Stone bridge over the Loire at pink dusk

Stone church and animal-shaped topiary in the garden

Our accommodation in Tours

We unearthed a cheap place on Airbnb, right in the centre of Tours, 8 minutes’ walk from the station. It’s a large private room on the ground floor of a mansion house, with a kitchenette and a private bathroom. We paid 158€ for 3 nights (tourist tax included), that is 53€ a night for two people!

Our favourite places to eat in Tours and Amboise

❤️ Nobuki: a Japanese gourmet restaurant (Michelin) that offers a tasting menu only on Friday evenings (remember to book ahead). Real culinary discoveries for 56€, 2 starters, 2 main courses, dessert.
❤️ L’Aubépine: a very good gourmet restaurant on the rue Colbert. 38€ for starter, main course, dessert.
❤️ Crêperie Bilien: an excellent crêperie in the heart of Tours; well-presented and generous galettes. 38.50€ for 4 galettes (two “starters” in the form of rolls and two classics).
Boulangerie de la Scellerie: the perfect place for breakfast, a stone’s throw from our accommodation. A big choice of pastries, more than usual in a bakery. Cinnamon rolls, praline rolls, pistachio rolls, chouquettes…
L’Affiné: a good place for cheese fans (gratin dishes, boards…). 45€ for two gratins and a cheese plate for dessert.
Comptoir de Mamie Bigoude: the place open 7 days a week that saves you when everything is closed on Sunday! A good crêperie with wacky decor and very affordable prices. 32€ for three galettes and two crêpes.
AuTours d’une glace: the go-to place for artisan ice cream (5.50€ for two scoops). Special mention for the gingerbread ice cream!

Other places spotted in Tours that caught our eye: pâtisserie Léger, L’Accalmie, Les Bartavelles (gourmet), Le Bistrot d’Odile…

Chantilly&Co in Amboise: a good place for a quick bite (soups, salads, sandwiches…) and for an afternoon snack. 26€ for two soups, two drinks and three cakes.

Find more photos in the highlighted story on our Instagram account!

Menu open on a table laid with Japanese chopsticks

Tuna tataki and black rice on a green plate, soy sauce

Pistachio pastry swirl held in the hand outdoors

Rolled buckwheat galette skewered on a slate

Galette topped with radish, salad and scoops of ice cream

Sliced duck breast on orange purée in a black plate

Figs and quenelles lined up between two streaks of sauce

Cheeses, fruit jelly and dried fruit on an orange platter

Afternoon tea platter, yellow velouté shots, cappuccino and rolled brioche

Crêperie table set with complete galettes and glasses

What we thought of Tours and Amboise

This autumn interlude in Tours did us a world of good! This corner of France has everything you expect from a good weekend: exceptional heritage, excellent food, accessibility and the ease of getting around by train… We rediscovered Tours, which was a lovely surprise: it’s a lively, dynamic city, well kept and restored, and a good place to be. Two days are enough to visit it, wander about and enjoy its parks. The big plus? Tours is a good base for heading out to discover the region’s many castles (by bike, by train or by car).
If you’re looking for a good destination idea, for a long weekend or even a week, without a car from Paris, the Loire valley is made for you!

Need ideas for your weekends and holidays in France? Read our articles about our beautiful country!

Title Tours and Amboise on the château and its clipped gardens

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