A weekend in Metz

Do you know one of the main cities of Lorraine? In this article, we’re inviting you to set off and discover Metz, the prefecture of the Moselle department! It’s a destination easily reachable by train, notably from Paris Gare de l’Est in 1 hr 25 (OUIGO tickets available from 19€ one way). Perfect for spending a weekend there! And if you arrive by train, don’t miss admiring Metz station, which has won the competition for the most beautiful station in France three times.

For the record, we’ve already known the city for a few years now, because Romain’s parents settled there. Their move was a chance for us to discover a new region and a new city, one we wouldn’t have thought of spontaneously to get away from Paris. In the collective imagination, Metz often has a reputation for being a grey, austere city because of a significant military past and the influence of nearby Germany. But think again, the city has plenty going for it and we fully intend to show you!

Getting around Metz

The historic centre can be done entirely on foot, because all the important monuments and sites are close to one another.

However, if you want to head to the Amphithéâtre district, in the south of Metz, on the station or Centre Pompidou-Metz side, you can make the most of the well-developed public transport network (le MET’). Plenty of bus lines cross Metz and the surrounding towns: no need to rent a car for a weekend.

Think about getting the CityPass to save money during your stay! At 16€ per person, it includes a Visi Pass’ transport ticket for unlimited travel on the LE MET’ network for 24 hrs, one entry to the Centre Pompidou-Metz (which on its own already costs 14€) and a guided or audio-guided tour of Metz.

*CityPasses provided by the Tourist Office of the Eurométropole de Metz (Inspire Metz)

What to see in Metz

The must-see visits in Metz

Saint-Etienne cathedral in Metz

It’s the city’s flagship monument! At 42 metres high, the Saint-Etienne cathedral in Metz (1220-1522) is the third tallest cathedral in France and one of the largest Gothic buildings in Europe. It dominates Metz from the Sainte-Croix hill: it’s therefore impossible to miss in the urban landscape. Nicknamed the “Good Lord’s Lantern”, it holds the record for the largest surface of stained glass in France with 6,500 m² of coloured windows, some of them made by well-known 20th-century artists such as Marc Chagall and Jacques Villon.

Quartier des Iles

The Moselle, a tributary of the Rhine, runs through the city and its various branches form islands on which some of Metz’s important monuments stand. Opposite the cathedral, you can visit the covered market, a fine U-shaped 19th-century building where you can do a bit of shopping for local produce and sit down at one of the restaurants. Coming out of the market, after crossing the place de Chambre, you reach the Moselle and the famous bridges that span it. Don’t miss the view from the Pont des Roches or the Passerelle de la Comédie.

One of the district’s legendary spots is unquestionably the place de la Comédie (dating from the 18th century) and its Opéra-Théâtre, the oldest still in activity in France, with numerous opera and dance productions. In summer, the square is taken over by the Constellations festival and turned into a temporary garden for the occasion. It’s a very beautiful and peaceful place where it’s pleasant to wander or take a break!

One of our favourite spots in Metz is the Jardin d’Amour, and the Temple Neuf, at the tip of the Petit-Saulcy island. This Reformed church with neo-Gothic architecture dates from the beginning of the 20th century. The finest view of the temple is from the rue des Roches, on the quay, just below the Moyen-Pont. Beautiful photos guaranteed!

Plan d’eau

The Plan d’eau is the green (and blue) lung of the city of Metz. It’s an essential place for a stroll, to be enjoyed on foot as much as by electric boat or pedalo. Its marina even carries the “Pavillon bleu d’Europe” label! The nicest thing is to walk right round it, passing in particular by the Japanese gate (Tori) which offers lovely views of the cathedral. Take the time as well to go past the lock keeper’s house and the swan lake, which will make you forget you’re right in the city centre. Metz is in fact ranked among the greenest cities in France!

Historic city centre (Colline Sainte-Croix and Outre-Seille)

Metz has a beautiful historic centre, mostly pedestrianised and full of shops. Don’t hesitate to wander through the cobbled streets lined with ochre-yellow stone buildings (the Jaumont stone) to discover some lovely gems. Don’t miss the Cloître des Récollets and its garden, the Maison des Têtes, the Saint-Maximin church and its stained-glass windows by Jean Cocteau, or the very beautiful place Saint-Louis, a former medieval money-changing square with an Italian air about it, with its arcades.

From the Porte des Allemands to the Seille

Another unmissable place when you visit Metz is of course the Porte des Allemands, a defensive structure that bears witness to the city’s medieval past. This gate, which looks like a fortified castle, is free to visit and hosts cultural events.

Just below it is the summer guinguette Les Frigos, set up near restored former military cold stores. This festive, food-focused venue offers shows, food courts and lots of entertainment from May to early September. Ideal for having a drink with friends or eating a slice of tarte flambée in the shade of the plane trees, while listening to a concert!

From the Porte des Allemands, you can take a very lovely walk along the Seille and at the foot of the former ramparts of the Bellecroix fort. The route of the chemin des corporations is signposted and lets you discover the towers, bridges and gates of this former fortified complex. You won’t meet many people there, so take the chance to have a look round. Peace and quiet guaranteed!

Citadelle district

Impossible to go to Metz without passing through the place de la République and above all the Jardin de l’Esplanade, a French formal garden of more than 9,000 m² laid out around a pond. From there, you can make out the Moselle valley and Mont Saint-Quentin in the distance. This garden is bordered by a vast military complex, the Arsenal (Jean-Marie Rausch), which today hosts the Cité musicale, one of whose concert halls is recognised in France for its exceptional acoustics. Since 2019, Metz has been the first city in France to be a member of the UNESCO creative cities network in the field of music.

Just behind it is the magnificent and hidden former abbey church of Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains (one of the oldest churches in France), the impressive Palais du Gouverneur and the Chapelle des Templiers. A pretty corner of Metz, off the beaten track, that you shouldn’t miss discovering.

Metz Botanical Garden

Set more precisely in the neighbouring town of Montigny-lès-Metz, the Metz Botanical Garden is one of the must-visit sites when you come to Metz! It’s the perfect place for a stroll in fine weather to admire all the plant collections (rose garden, arboretum, scent garden, medicinal plants…). This English-style garden of more than 4 hectares also holds a heritage treasure: the Grandes Serres de collection (the great collection glasshouses), recently restored at the beginning of 2024 after three years of works. They are made up of six large themed spaces (orangery, arid climate, temperate climate, evolution, equatorial undergrowth, the journey of plants). An absolute must-see!

💰 Free for everyone
⏲ Opening hours: every day from 9am to 6.30pm (spring/summer); Monday to Friday from 9am to 4pm and weekends from 9am to 12pm (autumn/winter)

Coming out of the Botanical Garden through the rose garden exit, don’t miss the walk along the Jouy canal, where there are lots of colourful barges, at the foot of the Saint-Symphorien stadium. A touch of countryside right in the city centre! You can even get back to Metz in around thirty minutes on foot by following the watercourse along the towpath.

The museums of Metz

Centre Pompidou-Metz

A must-see museum in Metz since 2010! Set near the station, in the Amphithéâtre district, the little brother of the Centre Pompidou in Paris hosts contemporary and modern art exhibitions in a magnificent venue designed by the architects Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines. Among the current exhibitions, we’d single out the one by Katharina Grosse (until 24 February 2025) and her gigantic immersive work, and “Voir. Le Temps. En Couleurs” (until 18 November 2024) on the challenges of photography. The Centre Pompidou-Metz is also home to a new gourmet restaurant, Yozora (chef Charles Coulombeau), which we haven’t [yet] had time to discover.

💰 Price : 14€ for adults; free for under-26s (entry included in the CityPass)
⏲ Opening hours: open every day except Tuesday (10am to 6/7pm depending on the season)

Musée de la Cour d’Or-Eurométropole de Metz

This is a museum where you could spend hours, just like the Louvre in Paris! The Musée de la Cour d’or reveals 2,000 years of history in its collections, from remains of the Gallo-Roman era to 18th-century paintings. Our tip: go several times, focusing on certain rooms, because it’s almost impossible to get round everything in a single visit.

💰 Free for everyone
⏲ Opening hours: every day except Tuesday, from 10am to 12.45pm and from 2pm to 6pm

FRAC Lorraine (49 Nord 6 Est)

Set on the Sainte-Croix hill, in one of the oldest buildings in Metz (the hôtel Saint-Livier), the Lorraine regional contemporary art fund (FRAC) is dedicated exclusively to contemporary art. It offers exhibitions and projects developed with local associations and schools. Go for the architecture of the place and remember to poke your head into the little garden behind the building.

💰 Free for everyone
⏲ Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday from 2pm to 6pm; Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 7pm

What to do in Metz

Take a guided tour of the city

The CityPass 2024 includes a guided or audio-guided tour of the city: so we’d advise you to book a guided tour of Metz with a qualified guide who’ll know how to present the region’s history and share lots of anecdotes with you. We met Estelle, a qualified guide at the Tourist Office, who took us round the historic centre of Metz for 1 hr 30, from the Saint-Etienne cathedral to the place Saint-Louis. An interesting walk to discover the city of Metz and learn more about its heritage.

📅 There are lots of guided tours: see the list on the website of the Tourist Office of the Eurométropole de Metz (Inspire Metz).

*Tour provided by the Tourist Office of the Eurométropole de Metz (Inspire Metz)

Take a boat trip on the Moselle

An original way to discover Metz: a solar boat trip on the Solis Mettensis in the company of its captain Roby. The Solis is a small boat that allows environmentally friendly and silent navigation. We enjoyed the trip at lunchtime and discovered a branch of the Moselle, the Plan d’eau and part of the city centre towards the Temple Neuf. A lovely outing that we recommend to you!

💰 Several options are possible: a one-hour commentated trip (15€ for adults), around a breakfast (25€ for adults) or a picnic (45€ for adults*).

*Trip provided by the Tourist Office of the Eurométropole de Metz (Inspire Metz)

Enjoy the city’s unmissable cultural events

Metz is a really dynamic city that puts the emphasis on art, innovation and creativity! One of the unmissable events of the summer in Metz is the international festival Constellations, in its 8th edition this year (until 31 August 2024). French and international artists take over the city with artistic and digital installations that showcase Metz’s heritage. A chance to see Metz differently, by day as by night, through themed routes:

• Pierres Numériques night route (Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings): video mapping, immersive installations and laser scenography to admire the city by night
• Art & Jardins daytime route (every day): a lovely walk along the waters of the Moselle and the Seille
• Urban Art programme: works installed in public space

📅 See the whole programme in Metz

• May: Festival Passages (performing arts)
• July: Festival Hop Hop Hop (street arts)
• End of August: Fête de la mirabelle
• Beginning of September: Les Montgolfiades
• September: Moselle Open (tennis)
• December: Christmas markets, Saint Nicholas festivities…

Go to the beach at Metz-Plage

In summer, the Plan d’eau comes alive (until 25 August 2024) and part of it is laid out to host a real sandy beach with sun loungers, parasols and sports pitches. A guinguette (La Paillote) is even set up at the edge of the beach and offers music nights on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Metz Plage is definitely the summer spot in Metz!

Our favourite places to eat in Metz

• Pâtisserie Atelier Bon: an excellent (discreet) pâtisserie set under the arcades of the place Saint-Louis; to order for special occasions (birthday cakes, Christmas logs…)
• Aux Merveilleux de Fred: a must for tasting good brioches and the famous “Merveilleux”, available in different flavours
• Pâtisserie Lemoy: a very good pâtisserie (set in front of the station) with rather refined desserts

Places recommended by locals but not yet tested: L’Aromate in Semécourt, Derrière in Metz, La Réserve in Metz, Quintessence in Metz, Prestance in Metz…

What we thought of Metz

Often snubbed and passed over in favour of its neighbours in Champagne (Reims) and Alsace (Strasbourg), Metz nevertheless has huge tourist potential! It’s a city that deserves to be known and visited for its heritage, its gentle way of life and its many events that punctuate its calendar. Metz is an ideal destination for a weekend because it’s well served by train, from Paris for example (in 1 hr 25). And that goes for all year round! As much in summer to enjoy the green spaces as in the middle of winter at Christmas time.
If you’re looking for a new idea for a city to visit for a few days, not far from Paris, think of Metz! Impossible to be bored there: the city will know how to meet your expectations.

A trip made in collaboration with the Tourist Office of the Eurométropole de Metz (Inspire Metz). A big thank you to the whole team for their commitment and their friendly welcome, in particular Valentine, Vivienne and Estelle.

Need ideas for your weekends and holidays in France? Read our articles about our beautiful country!