A weekend in Caen

Like every year at the end of June, we head off for a weekend discovering a French town to spend a few days there, without taking the car. After Lille and Arcachon, it was in Normandy, in Caen, that we decided to put down our little suitcase for almost three days and two nights. We had already visited the town several years ago but without keeping a memorable impression of it, so this weekend was the chance to create some new ones.

Getting there could not be simpler: two hours by train on the NOMAD service from Saint-Lazare station in Paris for 24.50€ return. Unbeatable, and impossible to pass up!

Read on to find out everything about the programme of this sunny Normandy weekend.

Find our weekend in the highlighted story on our Instagram account!

What to see in Caen

Caen is quite easy to cover on foot over one or two full days, without taking public transport. Here is the list of the unmissable places not to miss during a visit to Caen, from west to east:

The Nice caennais district

As we were staying near this district, we took the chance to walk the long rue Caponière, lined with private mansions and historic monuments such as the education authority offices of Normandy or the former monastery of the Visitation. We also discovered the Nice caennais, a fairly hidden residential district whose origins go back to the 20th century, at the time when city dwellers were looking for a corner of nature close to the town centre, but without the drawbacks of the city. Today you can still see the remains of this district, once closed off by entrance gates. A very pleasant walk off the beaten track!

The Ducal Palace

A magnificent historic monument, the Ducal Palace today houses the Artothèque de Caen and its contemporary art exhibitions. Even from the outside, the palace is worth a look! When we passed through, the “OUF” exhibition was being installed, so we only had a wander around the building, with free entry. You can also take the chance to admire the back of the Abbaye aux Hommes as well as the Saint-Etienne abbey church.

The Saint-Etienne abbey church of Caen

Facing the Ducal Palace is the Saint-Etienne abbey church, worth visiting because it holds the tomb of William the Conqueror, an emblematic historical figure of the town of Caen. From the alley on the side of the church, you get direct access to the superb Abbaye aux Hommes.

The Abbaye aux Hommes

A true emblem of the town of Caen, the Abbaye aux Hommes is definitely a monument not to miss. The abbey was founded in 1063 by William the Conqueror and is today considered a jewel of medieval architecture. Entry for adults costs 5€ and gives access notably to the cloister, to the permanent exhibition on the Second World War and to the temporary exhibition (on the photographic work of Robert Doisneau when we passed through). The Abbey houses the town hall: we therefore came across many newlyweds and their processions in the cloister while visiting on a Saturday afternoon. Bear that in mind if you want to visit in peace, maybe avoid Saturday!

Do not miss the back of the Abbey on the Ducal Palace side either, because the views over the monument are magnificent. Few tourists think of going behind the Abbey: you will have peace and quiet for your photos!

The historic centre

From the Abbaye aux Hommes, we walked to the centre of Caen with its lively shopping streets. A few picturesque streets not to miss: rue Ecuyère, rue Froide, rue Saint-Pierre… We really liked strolling around there!

The Hastings district

North-west of the centre is the residential Hastings district, very pleasant for ambling around and visiting a few points of interest such as the Jardin des Plantes and its tropical greenhouses or the very mysterious and bucolic Cimetière des Quatre Nations.

Caen Castle

From the Jardin des Plantes, we reached Caen castle via the rue Bosnières and so discovered the walk around the ramparts. When we passed through at the end of June, the castle grounds were under works (the Musée de Normandie nevertheless stays open for the whole duration of the works), but we were still able to walk around and climb up onto the ramparts. From up there, there is a lovely view over the rooftops of Caen: ideal for golden hour or sunset.

Saint-Pierre church of Caen

Facing the castle is the large and impressive Saint-Pierre church, which rises to nearly 80 metres. Special mention for its magnificent organ!

The harbour and the Presqu’île district

We carried on our way towards the Caen marina and the new Presqu’île district, which we liked a lot! You can walk along the quai Vandeuvre then cross the pont de l’écluse to reach the Presqu’île district, its bars and its cultural venues. A walk to do to see something other than the historic town centre! From the marina, we then headed towards the town’s second abbey, the Abbaye aux Dames.

Abbaye aux Dames

So, off to the abbey church of the Abbaye aux Dames, which holds the tomb of Matilda of Flanders, wife of William the Conqueror. A really magnificent site that you can visit with a guide, with access to the crypt, every afternoon, for 5€ per person. Above all do not miss the Michel d’Ornano park, behind the abbey, where the views over the monument are magnificent.

Vaugueux district

A last walking idea in Caen: the Vaugueux district, very picturesque with its old half-timbered houses. This is where you will find many restaurants and bars: ideal for a drink in the early evening, especially in summer.

What to see in Ouistreham

During our weekend at the end of June, we endured (or enjoyed, depending on your point of view) the heatwave that hit Normandy. So we decided to head for the coast to try to find a bit more coolness and to enjoy the beach before our return to Paris.

Getting to Ouistreham from Caen: you need to take bus 12 or 12E (stop at the Caen SNCF station). The bus ticket costs 1.60€ and is valid for one hour (you can buy it by SMS directly on the bus or at the terminal at the stop). The journey takes 30 minutes between the SNCF station and the Ouistreham lighthouse.

Getting off the bus, we went straight to the Ouistreham lighthouse to start our walk on the pointe du Siège, a protected natural area listed Natura 2000 in the Orne estuary. The path (with no shade) runs along the beach and goes past the observation tower, after about 20-25 minutes’ walk from the lighthouse. From the top of the tower, there is a superb view over the sea and the estuary: apparently you can even spot seals from there, but we did not have that luck. We really recommend this walk on the headland, the landscapes are very beautiful and it lets you escape the city.

We then made our way to the town centre and walked along the avenue de la mer, the shopping street that leads to the Ouistreham beach with all its shops and restaurants. At the end of the avenue you discover the Riva Bella beach with its big wheel: the ideal place to lay down your towel and enjoy the sea. To get back to Caen, we took the bus again at the “Riva Centre” stop, as far as the SNCF station.

Where we stayed in Caen

We chose to stay in a private room in someone’s home, in the centre of Caen, ten minutes’ walk from the Abbaye aux Hommes. We can only recommend this room found on Airbnb for 70€ for 2 nights if you are looking for budget accommodation for a weekend! The room is very cosy, quiet, looking out over the rooftops and gardens of Caen. We had the impression of having the flat all to ourselves because we did not once bump into the owner, who kept unusual hours. Unbeatable value for money!

Our favourite places to eat in Caen

• ❤️ Eat on stage: a very good place for eating puccias, Italian burgers with bread typical of Puglia (eat in or take away); 25.70€ for 2 puccias, 1 portion of chips and 1 dessert
• ❤️ Crêperie Gaby: an excellent modern crêperie with very pretty decor and original galettes; 27.50€ for 2 galettes and 1 juice
• Waïha Poké Bar): a good place for eating something fresher; 14.50€ the large poke
• Le Schmiblic: for a homemade burger on the go; 7.50€ the tomme de Savoie burger
• Boulangerie-pâtisserie Calou: a very good bakery right next to our accommodation on the rue Caponière; 2.90€ the slice of Normandy apple tart
• Atelier Rambaud: a good spot for something sweet on the rue Froide; 5€ for 2 scoops of ice cream and 4.30€ the entremet
• ❤️ C&Choux: a new choux pastry shop on the rue Froide; 11€ for 6 choux, very good!
• Alban Guilmet: a well known patisserie in Caen; 1.40€ the macaron and 5.20€ the entremet
• Maison Candy’s in Ouistreham: not the best ice creams we have ever eaten but it cools you down nicely; 4€ for 2 flavours

Find more photos in the highlighted story on our Instagram account!

What we thought of Caen

Caen was a lovely surprise for us! We did not have many memories of our visit to the town several years ago, so it was almost a complete discovery. We found the town very pleasant for spending a restorative weekend, not far from Paris, easily reachable by train. With its rich historical heritage and its lovely places to eat, Caen is a pretty destination to discover without delay. Its closeness to the sea and the coast gives it a certain appeal: what could be better than going to the beach after a day out in town.
So, if you are looking for an idea for a weekend without a car (from Paris for example) combining cultural visits, walks in beautiful neighbourhoods and a trip to the seaside, think of Caen!

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