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A weekend in Chartres

The idea of a weekend in Chartres in May was inspired by a OUIGO newsletter: all tickets at 5€ for many cities in France!

Spires of the cathedral behind a tree in blossom and the terraces of the square

The idea of a weekend in Chartres in May was inspired by a OUIGO newsletter: all tickets at 5€ for many cities in France! We jumped at the chance to book our seats for 1h30 on the train from Paris Austerlitz. 10€ return per person, we could not pass up such an offer. We had already been to Chartres in autumn 2017 but we wanted to rediscover this small town in the sun in spring.

The chance too to see Chartres en lumières, free sound and light shows that showcase the town’s heritage as soon as night falls. We were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the illuminations along the Eure: it is definitely worth the trip! We were even surprised not to see more people on the square on a Friday evening. Special mention for the long show projected onto the cathedral façade, really very well done, both in terms of sound and image. Ideal to see the town differently and finish the evening after a good restaurant!

Glowing floral patterns projected on a wall at the water's edge
Cathedral lit in blue with the name of Chartres projected on it
Arcades lit in green and blue reflected in the river
Facade of the cathedral painted pink and gold by the projectors
Stained glass patterns projected in blue on a facade at night

What to see in Chartres

Notre-Dame de Chartres cathedral

You cannot come to Chartres without noticing or visiting its superb Gothic cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While the inside is already breathtaking through the abundance of architectural details and the quality of the stained glass, you must also not miss going up high. Indeed, the cathedral towers as well as its roof frame can be visited! So we booked a guided tour directly at the desk inside the cathedral for 6€ per person (free up to 25 years old). Think about planning ahead or getting your tickets online because there were only two places left for the next day when we turned up.

West front of the cathedral and its two dissimilar spires
Carved statues of the choir screen in white stone
Carved portal and stone rose window seen from below
Pale nave opening onto the choir and its coloured stained glass

The guided tour lasts almost two hours and lets you learn more about the history of the cathedral, the events that affected it or the work of restoring the stone and the stained glass. What is more, the views from the roofs are magnificent. Really fascinating, we highly recommend it!

Flying buttresses and green copper roof seen from above
Metal roof frame of the cathedral attic
Rooftops of the town seen from the top of the cathedral
Vault and great window seen from below at the crossing

The town centre

The heart of Chartres is not huge but it is full of charm and invites you to wander! Arriving from the station, we passed through the esplanade de la Résistance and saw the famous “Chartres” sign. We then took the rue de l’étroit degré which plunged us into the atmosphere of the town. From there, no need for a map: the cathedral becomes a landmark and you just have to stroll through the streets and lanes. A few points of interest to note (besides the cathedral):

  • Place Billard and its covered market
  • Musée des Beaux-Arts de Chartres
  • Eglise Saint-Aignan
  • Centre international du Vitrail de Chartres
Arched wooden door in an old stone wall covered with ivy
Green sloping street leading towards the spire of the cathedral
Metal hall of the covered market and the facades of the square
Panelled nave of a church and its rows of chairs
Gothic church surrounded by flower beds and lawn
Classical facade of a mansion in front of its rose beds
Spire of the cathedral appearing at the end of a narrow street
Multicoloured sculpture in front of a half timbered house in the centre
Giant letters in front of the panorama of the town and its cathedral
Half timbered gables and old houses on a sloping street

The banks of the Eure

Nothing more pleasant than finding nature in a town! Chartres is crossed by two arms of the Eure, so water is present everywhere. The ideal thing is to follow the banks in the lower town, towards the north in the direction of the parks that line the tributary, or towards the south, to find lovely viewpoints. Do not miss the pont du Massacre and the pont Bouju to take pretty shots of this green town.

River lined with washhouses and climbing roses, spires in the distance
Gothic ruins of a collegiate church reflected in the Eure
Stone bridge over the Eure and spires of the cathedral in the distance
Green boat moored at the foot of the old riverside houses
House with a gallery and stone arches at the edge of the Eure
Narrow arm of water squeezed between the walls and the houses
Wide river lined with trees and waterside gardens
Purple foliage framing the washhouses and the course of the Eure

The Jardin d’Horticulture

After following the banks of the Eure, we retraced our steps to get back to the town centre and so passed through the Jardin d’Horticulture (free access). Small but bucolic! If you find yourself in the north of Chartres, do not miss popping in.

Pond and wrought iron railing in front of the lawn of the garden
Tall trees and mown lawn of the horticultural garden
Wooden bench beside a path leading to a footbridge

La Maison Picassiette

For this unusual visit, head to the south-east of the town. About fifteen minutes on foot from the town centre, just behind the Saint-Chéron cemetery, is the curious Maison Picassiette. It is the house of Raymond Isidore, a simple sweeper at the neighbouring cemetery, who built his mosaic house made of odds and ends picked up during his walks. The result is astonishing to say the least: it is worth a look! It is possible to visit the house from March to October; adult entry costs 6.50€.

House entirely covered with earthenware mosaic
Throne and mosaic walls in the courtyard of the Picassiette house
Passage covered with mosaic and a starry blue fresco
Pond and flower beds in front of a mosaic wall
Model of the cathedral built from shards of earthenware
Room with furniture and floor entirely covered with mosaic

Our accommodation in Chartres

For this “small budget” weekend, we chose to stay in a guest house, unearthed on Airbnb, for 56€ a night with breakfast. The house is ideally placed on the banks of the Eure, rue du Pont du Massacre, in the heart of the town. And as a bonus, a pretty view of the cathedral from the room. Our host Isabelle welcomed us warmly and advised us on the visits to do. We recommend this place for a short stay in Chartres!

Our favourite places to eat in Chartres

  • ❤️ Carré Vanille: the patisserie not to be missed! Excellent, well-crafted desserts, nicely presented.
  • David Lambert chocolatier: good choux buns and macarons.
  • Boulangerie Feuillette: handy for eating on the go but nicely settled in the room at the back. 5€ for the salad or the pasta dish.
  • ❤️ Gabin, Marcel et Ferdinand: a wine bar which offers excellent cheese and charcuterie boards prepared to order.
  • Moulin de Ponceau: a fine dining restaurant located on the banks of the Eure in an old mill; the discovery menu at 70€ disappointed us for its value for money but the à la carte or the lunch menu seemed more convincing.
Flower decked terrace of a house overlooking the river
Fine dining plate garnished with a borage flower
Two plates of spring vegetables set on a pale table
Fish and potatoes coated in a dark sauce
Hotel lounge with a bookcase, leather armchairs and a fireplace
Box of macarons and pastries held at the water's edge
Board of cured meats and cheeses served with bread

What we thought of Chartres

We rediscovered Chartres and fell for its charm! Two days are enough to discover the town’s main points of interest, wander in the centre and try a few good places to eat. If we had had an extra day, we would have gone to visit the château de Maintenon, reachable by regional train from Chartres.
If you are looking for a good destination idea, for a short weekend without a car from Paris, consider Chartres. You will not be disappointed, especially when the weather is nice!

Need ideas for your weekends and holidays in France? Read our articles about our beautiful country!

Traveller sitting on a low wall facing the houses along the Eure

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