A weekend in Saint-Malo

To break the gloom of winter and of March, we decided to go to Saint-Malo for a weekend. It was our third visit to the corsair city! So we booked our train tickets: remember to get them well in advance because prices climb quite fast for the weekend. We paid 62€ return (Carte Jeune fare) with an average of 2h30 on a direct train from Montparnasse station.

Once you arrive at the station, you have to take a bus (lines 1, 2, 8) to get to the corsair city in about ten minutes. The ticket costs 1.35€ with a rechargeable card that you have to keep. You can also walk to the ramparts in a good twenty minutes from the station. Saint-Malo’s transport network is very well developed: here is a map of the network to find your way.

So we devoted Saturday and Sunday morning to visiting Saint-Malo and Sunday afternoon to Saint-Servan and its seafront.

What to see in Saint-Malo

No need for a map or a precise itinerary planned down to the millimetre, Saint-Malo is discovered by strolling! The city behind the ramparts is not huge, you will inevitably come across all the must-sees. On our side, we started by walking the steep streets of the historic centre that we already knew, having come in February 2020 and in August 2017. In no particular order, the streets and squares to discover: the very busy shopping rue Saint-Vincent and rue Porcon de la Barbinais, place de la Poissonnerie, rue de la Fossé, place Jean de Châtillon in front of the Cathedral, place Chateaubriand, rue de la Halle aux blés…

We then started the tour of the ramparts, reachable by many staircases at all the gates (Porte Saint-Vincent, Grand Porte, Porte de Dinan…). This high wall forms a loop of about two kilometres. It is the walk not to be missed because it offers superb views over the old stone town and over the sea!

If you come down from the ramparts at the Porte de Dinan, you can also follow the ramparts and go onto the Mole des noirs jetty which offers a panoramic view over the whole of Saint-Malo, its harbour and the Mole beach. Not to be missed!

We also walked on the Mole beach and the Bon Secours beach, known for its seawater pool and its diving board. A very photogenic spot! We also took the passage des Bées (at low tide) to walk on the Grand Bé island where Chateaubriand’s grave lies, facing the sea. Be careful to check the tide times so you do not get stuck on the islet, the sea comes in very quickly…

With the 6pm curfew, we could not carry on the walk beyond the ramparts, towards the big Sillon beach and further on the Hoguette and Rochebonne beaches. It is also possible to go to the pointe de la Varde, east of Saint-Malo, or to see the carved rocks of Rothéneuf (closed at this time). For next time!

What to see in Saint-Servan

Facing Saint-Malo, on the other side of the harbour and the Anse des sablons, is the small town of Saint-Servan which many people forget when visiting the Malouin city. Yet it is there that you find lovely views over Saint-Malo and Dinard. Saint-Servan is about fifteen minutes on foot from Saint-Malo – you have to take the chaussée Eric Tabarly.

So we arrived on the side of the Bas sablons district and its beach. A promenade runs along the sea as far as the Sablons harbour.

By the restaurant l’Escale and the boat dealer, you have to take the path that climbs towards the Cité d’Alet. From there, a very lovely walk begins that goes around this little peninsula. The sea was turquoise that day thanks to the blue sky and a dazzling sun. Quite simply magnificent! Do not miss the visit to the 39/45 memorial (outside open at this time) where there are many blockhouses and bunkers.

The path carries on to the Saint-Père beach and to the Solidor Tower, the emblem of the town of Saint-Servan. It is possible to go onto the rocks at the foot of the stone tower: from there, a panoramic view over the Solidor beach. The place is peaceful, far from the tourist bustle of Saint-Malo. Even in the middle of March, there was a holiday feel in the air! A real favourite.

To get back to Saint Malo, we took the coastal path again but there is a shortcut that leads you to the Sablons beach in just a few minutes. You then have to take rue Amiral Epron then rue des hauts sablons.

Our accommodation in Saint-Malo

We chose to stay in Saint-Malo intramuros to be in the heart of the old town and as close as possible to the sea and the restaurants. So we booked a superb studio on Airbnb, nicely decorated and equipped, in an ideal location, near the Halle aux blés. The agency that manages the flat is very responsive and friendly, we highly recommend it! Price for the two nights: 154€ for two.

Our favourite places to eat in Saint-Malo

• Fidelis: an excellent fine dining restaurant which offers a takeaway menu in jars (with a deposit); 17€ for starter/main or main/dessert and 20€ for the full menu. We ordered the weekend menu twice: baked egg, spinach, smoked bacon, mushrooms and parmesan cream / pollack, a variation on cauliflower, scallop cream or veal chuck / chocolate and peanut dessert.
• Crêperie La Duchesse Anne: this crêperie located at the entrance to Saint-Malo, porte Saint-Vincent, offers simple savoury and sweet crêpes to take away, at unbeatable prices. 18€ for four galettes.
• Boulangerie de la Cathédrale: delicious pastries and savoury quiches, right next to the Cathedral of Saint-Malo, on a quiet square.
• Pâtisserie Philippe Bouvier: good fine pastries in the old centre, at fair prices (3.50€-5.50€ each).
• Georges Larnicol: for the iconic kouignettes (mini kouign amann)!
• Kouigh Aman: a big stall that offers crêpes, galettes, fars bretons and kouign amann at good prices.

What we thought of Saint-Malo

Saint-Malo is the kind of town you never tire of! We think we will go back soon, there is so much to discover inside the walls and in the surroundings. The TGV line from Paris also makes the trip easier because you do not feel like you are losing precious hours of your weekend on the train and on transport. While Saint-Malo is a very well-known must-see in Brittany, the more discreet Saint-Servan and its cité d’Aleth are definitely worth the detour.
So we recommend the Saint-Malo/Saint-Servan combo for a short or long weekend in the fresh air, without a car because it is easily reachable on foot or by bus!

Need ideas for your weekends and holidays in France? Read our articles about our beautiful country!