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A weekend on the Arcachon basin

For a few years now, we have started a tradition: celebrating my birthday somewhere other than home and treating ourselves to a few days in France!

Red paraglider above the dune and the Arcachon basin

For a few years now, we have started a tradition: celebrating my birthday somewhere other than home and treating ourselves to a few days in France! This year, we chose the Arcachon basin to make the most of this June weekend. On my side, I already knew this little corner of France whose reputation needs no introduction, but it was a first for Romain. Arcachon really is the perfect place to switch off and enjoy the mildness of the south-west just 3h30 by TGV from Paris (67.50€ return with the carte jeune). And here is our programme!

What to see on the Arcachon basin

Arcachon

The centre of Arcachon is not huge so a day can be enough to discover this seaside town. It really is a town where life is good, so you just have to stroll through the streets to discover very beautiful houses or small local shops. No need for a precise plan! Here are the must-sees in our opinion.

The Ville d’Hiver district

The Ville d’Hiver is that Belle Epoque district located on the heights of Arcachon which holds many villas from the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. And each villa is unique, there is something for every taste: Moorish, Gothic, neo-classical or even Swiss influences. Do not miss, for example, the Villa Teresa, the Villa Alexandre Dumas or the Villa Castellamare.

  • Parc Mauresque: a superb park with hundred-year-old trees and a pretty rose garden
  • Passerelle Saint-Paul: which peaks at 25 metres high above a ravine, built in 1863 by Paul Régnauld and… Gustave Eiffel
  • Observatoire Sainte-Cécile: an astonishing metal tower that makes you dizzy as you climb it but the view is worth it!
  • Basilique Notre-Dame d’Arcachon
Rose garden in bloom in front of a villa in the Ville d'Hiver
Wrought iron gate framed by palm trees in front of a villa
Statue of the Virgin in front of the brick bell tower of the church
Fretted wooden balcony of an Arcachon villa
On the metal footbridge, rooftops and the basin in the background
Bell tower and umbrella pines overlooking the basin

The seafront

One of the emblems of Arcachon is the Thiers jetty, the main jetty from which all the boats leave for excursions on the basin or towards Cap Ferret. On our side, we did not have time to do a boat trip but we can recommend the Union des bateliers arcachonnais if you want to book a trip to see the Ile aux Oiseaux or the cabanes Tchanquées. This company also runs the shuttles to Cap Ferret.

Strolling along the seafront and the beach is really pleasant: if you head east, you reach the Arcachon marina and a little further on the Aiguillon beach.

On the sea wall facing the basin, sailing boats at anchor
Seafront street lamp beneath a pine branch
Beach at dusk, figure on the pink-tinged sand
Marina and forest of masts at sunset
Long sandy beach and jetty under a hazy sky
Wooden jetty and flags at the end of the beach

The Dune du Pilat

How can you come to Arcachon without going to the Dune du Pilat? Classified a Grand Site, the Dune du Pilat is the highest in Europe! It is such a huge and unusual place that you have to see it at least once in your life to understand the craze. To discover it, we advise you to go there by bike from Arcachon simply by following the cycle path! The ride is magnificent and lets you follow the coast and cross the chic districts of Haut-Pyla.

Allow about 40 minutes (without stopping; a little more if you take photos!) to cover the 10 kilometres between the Thiers jetty in Arcachon and the Escalier La Corniche where we advise you to leave your bikes. Once you arrive at the foot of the 5-star hotel and restaurant La Co(o)rniche, you can lock up the bikes and start going down the very lovely wooden staircase, towards the beach. All the difficulty now lies in climbing the dune! Watch out for burning feet when the sand is hot.

Slipway and catamarans at the edge of the basin
Umbrella pines leaning over a quiet beach
Hut covered with murals at the foot of the sand dune

But the view from the top is worth it and rewards all the effort! The panorama is unique, over the forest on one side and the Arcachon basin, the Banc d’Arguin nature reserve and even the tip of Cap Ferret on the other. You can stay several hours walking on the sand, admiring the landscape and watching the paragliders flying over the dune. Guaranteed tiredness in the evening after twenty kilometres of cycling and the climb in the sand!

From the top of the dune, the sandbank and the ocean
Facing the ocean from the crest of the Dune du Pilat
Crest of the dune walked by a few tiny figures
On the sand of the dune, pine forest down below
Lone figure on the huge slope of sand
Sitting in the sand facing the basin and the horizon

From the oyster farming villages to the Teich bird reserve

After this day at the Dune du Pilat, we decided to get on our bikes once again to head to the east of the basin and discover the seven oyster farming ports and villages of Gujan-Mestras. If you like oysters, this is THE place to taste them, almost with your feet in the water! The little wooden huts make all the charm of the place: do not hesitate to ride your bike into the port to admire them. The cycle path runs along the regional train line too, so if you are tired on the way, do not hesitate to take the train for one stop, from Gujan-Mestras station to Arcachon (1.30€ the journey).

Oyster farmers' huts and boats moored in the harbour
Channel lined with wooden pontoons and colourful pinasses
Oyster harbour at low tide, hulls resting on the mud

We then carried on to the Teich bird reserve which we covered in part. Indeed, the reserve is more easily visited on foot than by bike thanks to a 6-kilometre loop trail, dotted with observation hides. All the info about the reserve here.

Sandy path running along the exposed foreshore
Reed bed and stretch of water in the bird reserve
Marsh and tall grasses under a cloudy sky

Our accommodation in Arcachon

We rented a flat on the ground floor of an Arcachon house on Airbnb for 289€ for the 3 nights. Located towards the Ville d’Hiver on avenue Gambetta, the flat was simple but enough for a few nights. The big plus: two bikes made available, essential for getting around the basin! It was one of our search criteria; we had also found this place which offered free bikes.

Our favourite places to eat on the Arcachon basin

  • Le Patio: excellent starred restaurant of the chef and maître cuisinier de France Thierry Renou; we had chosen the “Balade Terre et Mer” menu at 78€.
  • La Cabane du breton: a very good crêperie a stone’s throw from the sea which offers very well-filled galettes (no need to have two!); 29.10€ for two galettes and two crêpes.
  • Ragazzi Da Peppone Arcachon: an Italian restaurant of the Peppone group set on the main avenue of the town centre. Remember to book, it is often packed! 46.85€ for a burrata, a pizza and a main course.
  • Maxi Gelati: delicious artisan ice creams with original flavours; 3.50€ for two flavours.
  • Pierre Mirgalet: chocolate maker and ice cream shop located on the main street of Arcachon, avenue Gambetta.
Tub of ice cream held up facing the sunset on the beach
Bordeaux cannelés held in the hand in front of the beach
Ice cream in hand beneath a leafy pergola

What we thought of the Arcachon basin

We loved this little corner of France where life is good! One thing is certain, we will go back (in particular for Cap Ferret where we did not have time to go). The Arcachon basin really has everything going for it: a good TGV service from Paris, with its station right in the town centre, excellent restaurants, different landscapes between the sea, the forest and the marshes, mild weather… This destination is perfect for a weekend or a short week if you want to take the time to discover every corner of the basin!

Couple posing on the sand dune facing the basin

Need ideas for your weekends and holidays in France? Read our articles about our beautiful country!

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